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Flared Wood 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: The author? But likely seen no more than few ascents.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 29
Submitted By: Howard on Sep 15, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: The flared crack section.

Description 

Interesting enough crack climb for the area. Begins with same boulder as in Wood Splitter, but rather than going up left side, go up right side slabby flare. Bit of a surprise: the left lean added to the flare make for a harder climb than the low angle suggests. The crux is definitely maybe two or three sustained moves. Initial crux involves the so-so smear to high step transition before the flare begins in earnest; secondary crux occurs in the flare where a thumbs down left-handed jam may be mandatory(unless you find an easier sequence).
Finish up licheny face with slight overhang as per Wood Splitter.

Protection 

Gear to 2" for slabby flare. On top of boulder after flare, climb continues with Wood Splitter's face finish.


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