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Flappy S 
RCM (Redneck Cracker Motherf*ckers) S 

Flappy 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Strassman, Jackie Carroll, and Steve Kabala
Page Views: 316
Submitted By: BAd on May 4, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Description 

This is a thin and challenging face climb.
The crux is found in the lower section. Once you're past the 3rd bolt and the angle backs off, the climbing does, too, although it's still interesting. A stick clip is handy, especially with the crux being low on the route. Another great Strassman, Carroll, et al route! This route is in shade until about 1pm and probably doesn't get much sun at all from late fall to early spring.

Location 

This is the first route you encounter as you walk up to the Hangin' Tree after coming through the tunnel. It follows the rounded prow of the buttress. RCM is in the corridor to the left.

Protection 

Ample bolts. Fat hooks for lowering.


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By James Barnett
From: Bishop Ca.
May 5, 2014

12 pitches, 80 feet ??
By BAd
May 8, 2014

Hey, James:

Yikes! Some sort of gross typo-seizure. I don't think I can change that. Major Doh! moment. Would be cool, however, to have on-sighted a 12 pitch 10c! I think that's a little beyond me just yet, but the training is moving forward, so you never know.

Edit: Thanks, moderator, for fixing my typo. My goal was to put in 1/2 pitch.
By Jeremy in Inyokern
From: Inyokern
Oct 11, 2015

If this is the route I think it is the Bishop Guide says it has 8 bolts when in fact it has 11.
By BAd
Oct 18, 2015

Hey, Gription:

I don't recall the number of bolts. It starts at the toe of the buttress as you first meet it on the trail up. You can see all the bolts. Carry a couple of extra draws if you're unsure. Good climbing.

BAd
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Nov 14, 2016
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

A crimpy start gets you going on good holds all the way to the top. The upper section is easier than its cousin next door and lower angle. If you can get through the first couple of bolts you'll have it in the bag. Good route. Solid 3 stars.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 14, 2016

Very fun, more technical start and slightly harder than the neighboring RCM but eases after the first two bolts. Good stuff, borderline 4 stars but feeling stingy.

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