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Tiara Rado
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100' Hands T 
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Flapper T 
Incredible Handcrack of the Monument T 
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Middle Finger - History is Tradition, The T 
Oompah Tower - Ethan Putterman and the Chocolate Factory T 
Second Coming, The T 
Short, Cupped Hands T 
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Things Fall Apart T 
Virga Tower-Arch Nemesis T 

Flapper 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,632
Submitted By: Jesse Zacher on Jul 18, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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The crux section of this thin route. Picture credi...

Description 

Great climb! Start off with sandy/ ramping small hands/fingers. Hit the clean finger splitter, which is just past vertical, fire to the anchors. Pinches down at the top.

Location 

Left about 200 feet from Cupped Hands around the corner and past the detached block. Up obvious, slightly overhanging splitter.

Protection 

Finger sizes.


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By chris righter
Feb 24, 2010
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Fat fingers beware!
By Mike dandy Patz
Dec 27, 2010

I think it's actually just *%*&ing hard.
By Tom Blackburn
Feb 18, 2017

I was with Andy Petefish when he worked on and did this project in 1989. He told me he didn't have enough #0 TCUs or big enough testicles to continue upward and was unwilling to put his fingers in an acid bath to slim down the digits for a few more feet. There you have it!
Nice wall!
At my age now, I enjoy the loop from Mushroom Rock (Monument Canyon) via Lassoing the Shaky Steel Otto Pipes, a brief stop at Otto's Bath Tub, and then a quick descent down the Otto Carved Ladder (similar to the Ute Canyon/Liberty Cap Otto Staircase) in back of Gold Star Canyon from where this route is. Good job with the other climbs there.
Probably still a super nice four pitch route to be done there deeper in Gold Star Canyon that look like Lightning Bolt on North Six Shooter.
Have Fun!

"The unexamined life is not worth living" ~ Socrates

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