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Flannel Avenue T 
South Face Direct T 

Flannel Avenue 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 1949
Page Views: 34
Submitted By: Rob Davies UK on Jun 19, 2015

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Looking down from the stance.

Description 

P1 (90' 5.7+) starts up the chimney which is often damp: either easier but not well-protected by bridging at the outside; or more technical back-and-footing but with good wire runners a few feet in. Move right and continue steeply up to a niche. P2 (90' 5.6) moves right and makes an exposed traverse, then up a good slab to a big ledge. Finish right of a block by pulling up a steep wall.

P1 (the chimney) is hard for the given grade, UK HS 4b, but many people avoid this by coming in from the right.

Location 

Descend Ash Can Gully (near coastguard station), with abseil at bottom. Move east along wave-washed platform under Wolf Buttress to reach Bishop Buttress (low tide only!). Flannel Avenue starts up an obvious black chimney.

Protection 

Standard rack.


Photos of Flannel Avenue Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The initial chimney is tough for the grade.
The initial chimney is tough for the grade.

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