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A great line! This might be a bit heady if 5.11b is at your limit, as the bolts are a bit spaced out. Climb overhanging rock to reach a pair of crimpers. Make a reach to a perfect hole and clip the 2nd bolt (crux). Continue up the arete and get a good rest just before the final overhang. At the overhang, traverse out right to reach the 5th bolt at the lip of the overhang. Make a few moves on OK holds to pull the overhang (redpoint crux).
This is the next bolted line to the right of Macauley's Irish Stout, 5.12b. Locate the clean arete that leads to an overhang.
5 bolts, shuts.
By Andrew G
Sep 19, 2016
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Consistent, fun movement on this route. Belayer should be mindful as the climber makes the moves to get established on the crescent shaped rail at the second bolt. Felt a little soft for 11b at the New, but not enough to downgrade it.
By Brad Leneis
Oct 17, 2016
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Everything about this route is great except the groundfall potential. A TCU between the second and third bolts might be welcome if 11b is near your limit. For my money, the crux move above the first bolt is hard for the grade.