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Your Bones Will Crack T 

Flaky Chimp 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

Type:  Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: Roy Suggett R. Magner and Jim Mathews
New Route: Yes
Season: May through October
Page Views: 68
Submitted By: Roy Suggett on Jul 11, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: First clip is not as bad as it seems


Five bolts through some iffy holds leads to chains.


Lower Jungle on the "Pygmy Wall" just right of "The Great Rift Valley."


Quick draws and a helmet for the belayer.

Photos of Flaky Chimp Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Good moves on "iffy" holds
BETA PHOTO: Good moves on "iffy" holds

Comments on Flaky Chimp Add Comment
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By Roy Suggett
Oct 11, 2010

This route has some really great moves that require using some really questionable rock. Belayer beware. The route will clean up over time most likely changing the rating.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 6, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13

By the time I got on this one I had wrapped my head around the potential looseness of the place but the flake left of the 2nd bolt still boggled my mind. Especially when I stepped on it.
Anyway, this is another good line with super technical insecure moves around a bunch of questionable rock. Definitely worth doing and didn't feel R if you take your time and carefully choose your holds. An all-points-off double dyno to the flake might land you in the bushes though. Have someone take pictures when you go for it!
By travis timm
From: Tropic, Utah
Jul 10, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Cool rout on questionable rock. Most of it isn't too hard; with the exception of the whole middle section where you have to move off of a crappy side pull and through some akward positions until you finally reach the juggy flake that feels as if its going to rip off the wall at any second. Then its just a few sweet moves to a nice big jug at the chains. Good luck to who ever rips that flake off, glad it wasn't me!

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