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BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the layback section.
The route is easily spotted. It is the giant flake in the middle of the rock that ends at a tree. The route starts just to the right of Arching Way in a good size crack. The crux is a little wide but comes quickly and isn't bad at all. Soon the flake will be obvious on your right. Head right and get ready to climb one of the nicer cracks I have experienced.
My two biggest pieces were a #3 Camalot and a #4 Friend so I placed the #3 as high as I could and then started up. I slid my #4 until the angle lessened up and ran it out to the belay. The rock isn't steep so it makes for an easy but fun lieback. You can walk or rap off from the belay. If you're in the area it's a fun route.
This route mostly requires 3-4" cams. You could use a smaller piece or two before the main flake. Some long slings before the flake help reduce drag. The belay is a tree with slings.
By Buff Johnson
Jan 19, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
The finish flake was fun - I used tri-cams (3 each #5 tri-cams - the red ones, were perfect) & nuts. The tri-cams probably were better placements than if I had used SLCD cams as the flake was funky. Good fist & arm bar locks - laddered my feet all the way. Tree to finish - has a rap station 30M to the ground (goes over Original Sin).
By Jay Eggleston
Feb 16, 2011
A #4 Camalot is the key piece for this route. You can slide it up with you most of the way supplemented by a couple of #3s.