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This is a super fun climb with a difficulty and mental crux right off the deck. Climb up to a small roof, pull over the roof, climb enjoyable, if hollow sounding, flakes. When you get to the junction and can either choose to move left up a corner, or right into an alcove and then another corner, go right. Make a fun balancey move to the crack, and climb direct to the anchor.
This climb is the second climb from the right of the wall.
gear to 2 inches. 2 bolt ASCA rap anchor.
By Mat Brunton
Jun 1, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great route. While rated here as a 5.9+, I found this route to be easier than Checkered Dog, ZigZag, and Orangutan Overhang (other 5.9s on The Monolith). If I remember correctly, you can move slightly right at start to make a decent placement and then head back left through the initial "crux."