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The Elwhall
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Flakes 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Kevin Rose
Page Views: 120
Submitted By: Scott Underwood on Apr 14, 2016

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Description 

I haven't climbed this because in years past it was sooo dirty. Recently cleaned up by local climber and developer, Dennis (he also did all the rock work at the base of the routes).

Protection 

QDs


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By Tim Spenser
Jul 16, 2017

Climbed this yesterday, although I'm not totally certain that this is the route I was on since the route descriptions are so sparse. Interesting movements and cool variation in the rock, but the route is extremely dirty and clearly not climbed often (and often not completed when climbed: bail-'biners on the 4th,5th,6th, and 7th bolts).

Getting to the anchors (on what I gather is the "Pizza Pie" ledge) requires a committing and airy traverse with ample hands and minimal feet out right and up onto the ledge. The moves are cool, but the location of the anchors way out to the right of the main line makes cleaning this route difficult and frustrating. Anchor chains would have been better placed on the huge ledge encountered before the last three bolts.

The rock quality, especially low down, leaves something to be desired. Lots of the big flakes were ready to pull out of the wall. A sizable one (1' x 2'?) came loose around the first bolt while I was on rappel, narrowly missing my belayer and possibly affecting the route grade.

Again, not 100% certain that the route I'm describing is 'Flakes.' In any case, although the climbing itself was fun, the combination of sketchy rock and infuriating anchor placement means I won't be repeating this one.

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