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Flakes of Wrath 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Alison Sheets, 1988
Page Views: 26,716
Submitted By: George Bell on Feb 26, 2002

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Adam Perks, placing gear under the roof on The Fla...

  • Poop Alert! MORE INFO >>>
  • RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Fun trad route up an obvious left leaning, left facing corner. After leading you can TR the difficult direct variation to the left. One of the best routes here, maybe 4 stars?

    Protection 

    Friends to #3.5 with maybe an extra #2 and #2.5, medium to large stoppers.


    Photos of Flakes of Wrath Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Prius under Wrath
    Prius under Wrath
    Rock Climbing Photo: Atop a new fav crack in Moab.  Zipped up.
    Atop a new fav crack in Moab. Zipped up.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Underclinging out to the finish.
    Underclinging out to the finish.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling the surprisingly easy roof up top.
    Pulling the surprisingly easy roof up top.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Adam Perks approaching the end of the opening hand...
    Adam Perks approaching the end of the opening hand...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Adam Perks working through a crux on The Flakes of...
    Adam Perks working through a crux on The Flakes of...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The gear is a little tricky in this section, since...
    The gear is a little tricky in this section, since...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Me having a blast on this fun route.
    Me having a blast on this fun route.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Flakes of wrath favorite single pitch trad route
    Flakes of wrath favorite single pitch trad route
    Rock Climbing Photo: gorgeous fall day on flakes of wrath
    gorgeous fall day on flakes of wrath
    Rock Climbing Photo: High up on the route.
    High up on the route.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mike O'Sullivan
    Mike O'Sullivan
    Rock Climbing Photo: Sending the route!
    Sending the route!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Route from across road
    BETA PHOTO: Route from across road
    Rock Climbing Photo: Me on my first real desert trip!
    Me on my first real desert trip!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Elaine digs a good jam!
    Elaine digs a good jam!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Avery Later jamming on Flakes of Wrath
    Avery Later jamming on Flakes of Wrath
    Rock Climbing Photo: Flakes of Wrath
    Flakes of Wrath
    Rock Climbing Photo: Flakes of Wrath
    Flakes of Wrath
    Rock Climbing Photo: Lorin leading Flakes of Wrath--nice one, brother--...
    Lorin leading Flakes of Wrath--nice one, brother--...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Placing last piece
    Placing last piece
    Rock Climbing Photo: Zach Turner
    Zach Turner
    Rock Climbing Photo: Caleb catchiong breath after the thin section.
    Caleb catchiong breath after the thin section.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Lisa Gillest ripping it up on a HOT day at Wall St...
    Lisa Gillest ripping it up on a HOT day at Wall St...

    Show All 30 Photos

    Only the first 24 are shown above.

    Comments on Flakes of Wrath Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 28, 2016
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Feb 28, 2002
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    The left hand 'direct' variation is 5.11b and is even more fun than the regular route. Note, however, that a few non-direct moves are made in the 'direct' route. It's a great problem with a complex and interesting crux.
    By Casey Bernal
    From: Arvada, CO
    Feb 28, 2002

    I felt that the crux was in the thin section in the middle of the climb. I used several wires here but didn't have all the sizes I needed. The way the crack pinches down makes small cam and tcu placements impossible. Take stoppers from about #6 to #12. The roof takes a #1 and #2 cam. fun climb
    By Charles Vernon
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Apr 15, 2002

    George, I can't believe there is any doubt about 3 stars! Amazing route.
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 15, 2002

    I guess I'm not a fan of Wall St, it is too close to a major road for my tastes. When those potash trucks blast by just inches from your belayer it detracts from the wilderness setting! This is the best line I've done there, though.
    By Charles Vernon
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Apr 16, 2002

    I have to agree George, there's no way I can climb Wall Street more than 1/2 day on any trip. That said, I've done eight or nine routes there, all but two of which were excellent, this being the best.
    By Paul Nelson
    Aug 25, 2002

    On the direct line, be very cautious about a loose block at the top of the crack section.
    By Scott Conner
    From: Lyons, CO
    May 27, 2003

    Definitely a 3-Star Wall St. climb. A teriffic pitch of jamming and laybacking. Do bring a set of small to medium stoppers for the crux. I cavalierly left mine at the base and had to rig up a marginal cam. A must-do and easier than the Moki Roof, IMO.
    By Shane Zentner
    From: Colorado
    Feb 9, 2004
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Number one and two camalots. Jam your way up this beautiful crack to an anchor. Save enough energy for that roof crack thing to the right.
    By Nick Strong
    Mar 11, 2004
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    I've loved this route for years now, but it freaks me out to climb it because I've seen two people deck on it from 30+ feet. Both of them zippered. I'm pretty sure they weren't placing correctly, though, as I've never had any problems. Also, that crap at the bottom of the climb is Poison Sumac. Two months of rashes helped me learn that.
    By rob bauer
    From: Golden, CO
    Dec 14, 2004

    Just a comment for AC/Casey B. I've climbed the route a few times over the years and always used a tied-off runner at the pinch to protect the moves up from the pinch-off mentioned.
    By utfreeclimber
    From: Sandy, UT
    Mar 21, 2006
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

    This climb is a super fun warm up with a variety of sorta sustained moves spaced out with killer rests. The lieback around the flake at the top is really cool.
    By Petsfed
    From: Laramie, WY
    May 31, 2006
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    Harder than Visible Panty Line. Fun crux. I used all my medium and large nuts, and then doubles from .75-#2 camalot. Good stuff.
    By Mark Michaels
    From: Draper, UT
    Sep 28, 2006
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    LOVE this route! LOVE IT! The direct version 11b is recommended as TR only. The crux is at the top...the cracks down lower are 10ish with a nice rest in the middle. AWESOME.
    By Jonathan Schumacher
    From: Sandy, UT
    Jun 20, 2007

    What a killer route! Mother nature should have made 1000ft of this!
    By John Wilder
    From: Las Vegas, NV
    Apr 19, 2008
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    best route at the grade on Wall st...great climb. a single set is fine- maybe a second #1 or #2 for the roof....
    By Rhett Burroughs
    From: Rock Springs, WY
    Jun 30, 2008

    such a great climb!
    By Skyler Penrod
    Jul 8, 2008

    This was my second trad lead and is still one of my favorite climbs in the area. I think I placed up to a #4 Friend at the start for security reasons. Also watch out for the sand in the crack that always ensues after a good rain.
    By Devon Barker
    From: Glenwood Springs, CO
    Oct 14, 2008

    Absolutely awesome route!!! my first trad lead on sandstone and all the placements felt solid. If your up for a good challenge try the direct variation. The crux is definitely interesting!
    By Rob Davies UK
    From: Cheshire, UK
    May 8, 2009
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    Rock in this area has been trashed by rope-grooves created through people lowering off and top-roping from fixed anchors. Try looking at the photos to figure out which are the more recent ones! There are some very popular small sandstone outcrops in SE England that have been badly abused in the past by climbers top-roping, but even there it's rare to find rope damage as bad as this. Guide-book needs to state emphatically that, to avoid further damage, climbers should belay at top of pitch, then abseil, sorry rap, to ground. Come on guys, this is common sense - we don't need the environmental police on our backs.
    Route itself is no soft touch - in UK terms as hard as HVS 5b at Wilton.
    By Woodson
    From: Park City, Ut.
    May 16, 2009
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    Sooooo bad A$$$$! This route should not be missed, and should be repeated and repeated. The undercling is so great, and protects well, and runners here are a good call. I didn't runner it and ended with some drag.
    By Garrett Robinson
    From: Leadville, CO
    Sep 17, 2009

    The protection funkyness where the crack doesn't take cams can be really well protected with a creative tricam placement. This seemed to be more bomber than the nut placements available.
    By rick gardiner
    From: Grand Junction, CO,
    Nov 14, 2009

    I did this route rope solo, using my truck as the anchor and absolutely loved it. Good jams with an interesting reachy(finger crack)/smeary(for feet) crux that protects well with nuts. No need to bring anything bigger than a #3 camalot. I am not a fan of climbing by a major road with big trucks buzzing by and climbers bringing their families(kids and dogs)to the area. Another thing I witnessed was belayers standing in the road and not moving out of the way of traffic. Is this arrogance or ignorance?
    By Peter Swank
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 8, 2010
    rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Beautiful line, with great protection all the way up.
    By Rob C.
    From: Freeport, ME
    Oct 31, 2010
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Great jams! Really fun and somewhat sustained!
    By Alex Quitiquit
    From: Salt Lake City
    Mar 16, 2012
    rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

    Nuts and tricams, or hexes for the middle section where the two cracks/flakes meet. This gear protects the crux so make it count. Use a long sling on the roof to reduce drag to the anchors! So fun.
    By Hendo Henderson
    From: Denver, CO
    Oct 23, 2012

    As intimidating as the overhang traverse thing looks, this is not the hard part. The hard part is definitely the thin section. I top roped this, but was checking out the pro possibilities while climbing. Looks interesting for sure in that thin section. My leader placed a .5 C4 in that section, but man was it tough to get out. Sounds like other people manage to place a nut in that section. Oh, this route is a bit pumpy as well, but it might have just been that it was my third day down there.
    By Marcel Robicheaux
    From: Kanab, UT
    Apr 16, 2013

    four stars all the way
    By Gabby Olsen
    From: Holladay, UT
    Apr 14, 2014

    I lead this the other day and a guy named John was there and let me use a cam and left before I could return it. John if you see this can you email me at gabby_j_olsen@hotmail.com and I can mail your cam back to you!
    By Jon st.peter
    Apr 22, 2014

    Hi Gabby, it's Jon, nice lead and thanks for the solid, I emailed you, but just in case I missed something you can catch me at j_stpeter@live.com
    By Ryan Arnold
    Mar 30, 2015
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    5.9- climbing with 5.9+ gear placements. The pinched crack with open wideness behind it throughout the middle section results in challenging protection.
    By Michael Dom
    From: Seattle
    Dec 22, 2015
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    The jams on this thing are awesome. You are secure the entire time with fantastic gear. All you have to do is last!
    By mattjohnson
    From: Laurens, SC
    Apr 28, 2016
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

    No obvious gear for a ways beneath the crux. Maybe you could sling the pinch in the flakes? I found a blind #2 back behind the flakes but couldn't vouch for how good the placement was. Anyway, it is a decent place to stop and think, but be aware of the gear difficulty

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