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Flakes of Wrath Direct 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c R [details]
Page Views: 2,774
Submitted By: Lucas J Matthews on Oct 17, 2010

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  • Poop Alert! MORE INFO >>>
  • RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    5.9+ hand jams lead up to thinning double cracks. When the crack runs out, keep climbing the face with no bolts.


    This crack shares anchors with Flakes of Wrath but starts to the left of it.


    Cams. No bolts. Anchors at top.

    Photos of Flakes of Wrath Direct Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Typical Wall Street day
    Typical Wall Street day
    Rock Climbing Photo: Getting off the deck on Direct.
    Getting off the deck on Direct.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Isaiah jamming Flakes of Wrath Direct
    Isaiah jamming Flakes of Wrath Direct
    Rock Climbing Photo: Working out the upper moves to Flakes of Wrath dir...
    Working out the upper moves to Flakes of Wrath dir...

    Comments on Flakes of Wrath Direct Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Rob C.
    From: Freeport, ME
    Oct 31, 2010
    rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R

    I top roped this; very strenuous and awesome jams!
    By steven sadler
    From: SLC, UT
    Jul 27, 2011

    TR'd this route a couple of times. The 5.9+ big hands crack is pretty stiff. It's a funny angle so it's pretty strenuous. When i did it this last time someone had placed a bolt on the face but it's been removed. That section is run out but it would be a safe fall and that little runout section makes the climb way more fun and interesting. No need for a bolt there. Thanks to whoever removed it.
    By claytown
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 13, 2011

    I thought about leading this onsight but decided to just do the normal start and TR it. Glad we did it that way. The fall would be safe, assuming that your gear holds... then again it's all behind a rather thin (1") flake so I'd stack up quite a bit at the end of the crack if you go for it.
    By ben jammin
    From: Moab, UT
    Mar 11, 2012
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

    Lead this one! A #4 Camelot protects well just under the green aliens stacked in the flake that probably won't hold a fall (especially the one your gonna take if you blow the boulder problem!)
    By Evan Deis
    Dec 2, 2012

    I agree that this route should not include a bolt after the flake. However, when somebody takes a large enough whip on that flake, it may go, and the route will be forever changed. Maybe a bolt would save the route? Food for thought. I loved it without the bolt.
    By Alex Quitiquit
    From: Salt Lake City
    Mar 4, 2013
    rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R

    Nest of small cams before the boulder problem should keep you off the ground. Pretty Awesome.
    By Josh Cameron
    From: California in my Mind
    Feb 12, 2015
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R

    Stellar crack to some fun boulder moves at the top. Climbed on TR.

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