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YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Darren Knezek, Steve Burkholder
Page Views: 906
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Jul 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Natasha On The Spooky flake.


A steep route with a thin, difficult start, jugs and crimps in the middle, and a thin finish to the right side of a large, obvious flake just below the anchors.

The crux is low; getting to the first bolt is thin and balancy with tenuous crimps and insecure slopers. The second clip is difficult and awkward from a sidepull (my partner muttered imprecations and issued impolite speculation about the (then) unknown bolter while making the clip).

The middle of the route is a brief, welcome respite, and then comes an exciting, overhanging finish past the flake.

The route curves to the left and the shared anchors are above the left side of the flake. This causes the rope to drag across a sharp edge of the flake while lowering; unclip the rope from the last bolt while lowering. Also, the curvature of the route makes cleaning while lowering difficult.


The second-from-left of four bolted routes on the section of the Hidden Wall that is closest to the trail. Shares anchors with the route to the left of the flake (Tales from the Gripped).


9 bolts, hanger-and-ring anchors.

Photos of Flakenstein Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Natasha through the crux.
Natasha through the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Darell just after the crux on a crisp fall evening...
Darell just after the crux on a crisp fall evening...
Rock Climbing Photo: 1 The Hidden 5.10c 2 .44 Caliber Killer 5.11b 3 Me...
BETA PHOTO: 1 The Hidden 5.10c 2 .44 Caliber Killer 5.11b 3 Me...

Comments on Flakenstein Add Comment
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By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Aug 26, 2007

Updated description with FA info, correct name, and revised rating, per Darren Knezek.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jan 1, 2009

Really liked the start. The finish was just sort-a there...
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
May 31, 2009

Maybe I did something wrong but I found the first clip fairly grim. You're not going to die or anything but, still, as a 5.10 I was pretty focused and tried a few different stances before making this. I liked the rest of the route. Very cool climbing on excellent textured limestone. A little un-nerving at times with iffy-ish holds. Someday, with enough traffic, could be classic.
By Adam Wilson
From: Provo, UT
Jun 5, 2009

I feel I need to comment on high first bolts in general, as the topic comes up quite often. In AF and Rock Canyon, many routes were designed with the intention of stick clipping the first bolt. This keeps the thievery of the first few bolt hangers down. Feel free to count stick clipping the first bolt as a legitimate send on utah county sport routes.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jun 6, 2009

Yes, I have witnessed several times where routes have had the first hanger stolen (Even if glued).
By Christopher Sorensen
From: Provo, UT
Jul 16, 2009

Getting to the first and then second bolt is really difficult and extremely bouldery, but fun. Also, don't swing into the tree on the left, and if you are climbing this on TR, leave some draws in or prepare for major swingage.
By Jon Bitter
From: Waco, Tx
Jun 30, 2010

I thought the bottom half was just tiring without any really fun sections, but the last 20ft or so was great.
By Nich Cloward
From: American Fork
May 10, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Definitely a hard start, but worth doing. We stick clipped the first bolt and that made a big difference. Had to try a few approaches on the first to get it. Loved the flake at the top. I found that once you clip the bolt just below the big flake (I think it's second down from the chains) sitting there for a rest is just a good way to get tired and make the finish harder. I thought about a rest there, but started feeling a little pumped, so I just made a few quick moves to get to the flake. Will do this again.
By Jimbo Miller
Aug 28, 2015

I'll reiterate what Christopher said: this route swings a ton if you top rope and fall around the second bolt, and there is a nice tree that you'll likely swing into. Be careful about top roping and it's probably best to leave a few of the lower clips in.

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