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Flake Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mike Dunn, John Fain - 1987
Page Views: 1,314
Submitted By: saxfiend on Mar 1, 2008

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Getting started on the Flake Route. Great lead!


Fun route, with excellent protection and interesting moves. Rated 5.9 by the Dixie Cragger's Atlas, it's soft for the grade, but worthwhile nevertheless.

Work your way up a huge left-facing flake, using the flake itself or the crack between it and the main wall. When the flake ends, follow the face above and surmount an overhang with great holds, then continue up the face to the top.


Starts about five minutes down the trail from the Lucky Strikes area; you'll pass two dangerous spots where the trail is cut by a v-notch in the cliff. The first is protected by a safety cable, but the second isn't, so proceed carefully. Flake Route starts just past the second cleft.


Medium gear; nuts and cams up to #2 Camalot or the like. Build a gear anchor and/or sling a tree at the top.

Photos of Flake Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Denmark cruises up the namesake feature of the Fla...
Denmark cruises up the namesake feature of the Fla...

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By Alan Brock
From: Cleveland, TN
Oct 2, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Fun route that protects very well and always seems to have good holds. No real crux. DCA lists it as 5.9, but it's VERY soft for that grade; 5.8 at best. By far the most dangerous part of the climb is crossing the chasm just before the climb starts. Be careful and consider anchoring in your belayer!
By mv00087
Feb 8, 2016

Very fun route, not sure the 5.9- grade is very fitting though. Great holds all the way and a fun climb. Can easily be top roped on a tree above but be sure to back up your anchor up, the tree above isn't exactly a stud. There are places up top for cams or nuts, and also other trees if you have webbing. I have 30ft of webbing and it was plenty enough for a great back up. Also, the belayer should definitely anchor in, there is not a lot of room at the ledge where the climb begins.


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