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Flake Roof S 
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Flake Roof Indirect 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mike Head and company.
Season: Afternoon sun.
Page Views: 153
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Feb 9, 2009

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Some areas require a guide.

Description 

This pitch starts from the same exposed and sloping ledge as for Flake Roof. Climb the hueco arete up past the right side of the roof.

To end the pitch there are two options. One finish is to step left to Flake Roof anchor. Piana's book advises placing a nut for a directional. The other finish is to continue up and right to the belay on True Grip. Then finish via the excellent second pitch of Flake Roof, 5.10. The left finish is nice for top roping the 5.11+. The right hand connection to Flake Roof is the recommended classic.

I liked the Indirect better than Flake Roof because the holds were more fun and the protection was better.


Protection 

Four bolts. Also bring some small to medium pieces for either finish.


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