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(u) Northeast Buttress
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Etude T 
Flake Out T 
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Wet Dreams T 

Flake Out 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Pat Callis, Charlie and Paul Raymond, September, 1967
Page Views: 1,837
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jan 25, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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This is a well-protected two pitch crack climb, that traverses left for a long ways as it moves up. The crux is a short offwidth near the end of pitch 1. It finishes on top of the rock - walk off to the right. This climb is in the shade most of the day.


gear to a #4 Camalot

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By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Apr 19, 2006

I like this climb. The rock is of good quality, there are some good vistas from it and the climbing is entertaining, especially the offwidth on Pitch 1.
By Gavin Bridgeman
From: Tustin, California
Oct 12, 2013

I found this route to be way fun. Bring a #5 or #6 if you want to feel "safe" for the 5.7 ow
By Chad F
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Oct 24, 2013

Terrible, got stuck in the squeeze for 1/2 hour
By dnaiscool
Mar 25, 2015

Gotta go with Chad on this one, especially when you consider the high quality of the other routes in the area...why waste the time? Maybe I did not like it because big cams were not made then...
By nathanael
From: Riverside, CA
Jul 18, 2016

You can do the first pitch and rap from the anchor on Jonny Quest for a quick warm-up. #4 is too small for the offwidth, though with long arms you can slot a nut way in the back. The OW/squeeze is a bit intimidating but it's over quickly. The rest of the climb is just walking across the tops of these enormous flakes. Cool position but forgettable climbing.

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