Flake don't break
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near topping out the successful onsight FA
WARNING: R/X rating
Start on the 10 foot face climb below the crack and place a cam in the little horizontal crack. With some leans and fresh hand holds you'll get to the next cam placement which is a little noticeable (there was nowhere else to protect) pocket that opened between some mossy crack. change position again and continue higher. you can utilize that two and a half after you've figured out how to apply pressure to the flake thats flexing under your weight(suggest-ably stay off the damn thing, by distributing your weight to the right, others wanna climb too before you start breaking things). after you pass the first forty feet you've survived the crux. I personally thought the crux to be after the first 10 and before 33 feet.
There is a tree at the top of the route that you can run the rope around and rappel off of.
rated 3 stars for : oh my god I'm alive!
PS I wouldn't normally have given any climb such safety rating, but having dealt with the fact that the crack you're protecting also happens to be the seemingly wobbly flake, I figure give people a heads up. I didn't want to fall. I don't think anyone does, but It may deserve an R/X rating.
walk from either the side road pull off or the bear gulch parking/ employee housing. The route is at the base of the Skreetching Halt! in the river bed. there are two flakes that wafer into sharp edges. you follow that very obvious crack line.
I truly carried a full rack of Helium Cams and a purple BD 1/3 inch. I got by without using my 3.5 inch. I suggest Double 1/4 inch cam, double 1/3 inch cam, 2.5 inch cam,1 inch cam, 4 inch cam, with obvious draws with runners. there are not bolts. Use tree at the top out of the crack line to Simul-rappel down the wall and fight out of the bushes below.
BETA PHOTO: this is a very dirty climb. but she needed to be s...
By Brad Young
Oct 15, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
I led this route on May 9th, 2013, the 30th anniversary of the day I started climbing.
I think it was the route's third lead (Gavin the Pinnacles climbing ranger led it about three weeks before I did).
I love climbing at the Pinns, and I've made leading every route that exists there a serious life goal. I've led over 850 routes there up to 5.11c and toproped many others that only exist as topropes.
Why the background information? I give the background information so that the following two comments can be read in context. Here they are:
1. This is one of the scariest leads I've ever done at Pinnacles. I would never lead it again.
2. Maxwell's effort in leading the first ascent of this route, onsight and with natural gear was bold, plus, plus, plus. I've never met him, but I spoke with him (by telephone) about the route. From what I can tell (and after repeating his route) he's a young man with a well-developed sense of adventure. The climbing scene needs this type of adventurous soul; it benefits from them.
Excellent effort Maxwell.