REI Community
Failsafe Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Controversial Insert T 
Crumb Donut S 
Drill Rig S 
Flailsafe T 
Hitchhiker's guide to the Gorge S 

Flailsafe 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 230'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ayers, Spencer 1989
Page Views: 60
Submitted By: david goldstein on Nov 30, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Kevin Friedrich following p1 of Flailsafe

Description 

This multi-pitch, desert-tower-like trad extravaganza is just the ticket if you're starting to feel like a weenie for clipping so many bolts. For extra value, make a campaign out of this and do Controversial Insert while you're up there.

As you might expect, this wide gear route doesn't get much traffic so test before yarding and helmets are advisable.

Attains nice position above the river.

P1. 5.9, 130'. Follow a wide crack up the corner to an anchor. The crux is in the first 30' above the starting block/pillar so you can blow most of your wide gear there. To facilitate communication, we broke this into two pitches, belaying after 40', atop the starting block/pillar.

P2: 5.10, 100'. Climb straight up easy cracks and a low-angle, right-facing corner until you encounter the crux, a 20' undercling/traverse along a wide fist crack. An anchor follows shortly.

P3: We didn't do this as ML dissed it, doing it greatly complicates the descent and we weren't even clear where it went.

To descend: The rap from P2 to P1 is about 90'. From P1 to the base about 130'. Some jiggery-pokery required to keep ropes from getting soaked on the last rap.

Location 

On the right/south sector of Failsafe Wall at the right side of an obvious 40' high block/pillar, on a small beach barely out of the river.

Protection 

We took a single set of 1-7 Rocks, 1 ea yellow & red Alien, doubles up to #4 Camalot and 1 #5 C3 Camalot. The #5 is only used on the first pitch and you could probably get by w/out it.


Comments on Flailsafe Add Comment
Show which comments
By outdooreric
From: Bishop, CA
Feb 20, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

A #5 C4 Camalot (old style #4.5) is a great piece to bring. You can slide it up with you for the first 40 feet after the initial block on the first pitch. Otherwise it will be quite runout without multiple #4's.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About