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California
> Sierra Eastside
> Bishop Area
> Owens River Gorge
> Upper Gorge
> Failsafe Wall
Flailsafe
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3 from 5
votes
Routes in Failsafe Wall
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Chompin' at the Bit S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Controversial Insert T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Crumb Donut S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Drill Rig S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Failsafe S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Flailsafe T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hitchhiker's guide to the Gorge S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Thrill Pig S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Ayers, Spencer 1989 |
| Page Views: | 899 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | david goldstein on Nov 30, 2006 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!!
Details
Due to liability concerns, bridges are being removed in the Owens River Gorge at the request of LADWP. The Bishop Area Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund are currently in negotiations with LADWP to get this issue resolved. In the meantime, please continue to be good land stewards by respecting these bridge closures and finding alternate crossing points until this issue is resolved.
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
Description
This multi-pitch, desert-tower-like trad extravaganza is just the ticket if you're starting to feel like a weenie for clipping so many bolts. For extra value, make a campaign out of this and do Controversial Insert while you're up there.
As you might expect, this wide gear route doesn't get much traffic so test before yarding and helmets are advisable.
Attains nice position above the river.
P1. 5.9, 130'. Follow a wide crack up the corner to an anchor. The crux is in the first 30' above the starting block/pillar so you can blow most of your wide gear there. To facilitate communication, we broke this into two pitches, belaying after 40', atop the starting block/pillar.
P2: 5.10, 100'. Climb straight up easy cracks and a low-angle, right-facing corner until you encounter the crux, a 20' undercling/traverse along a wide fist crack. An anchor follows shortly.
P3: We didn't do this as ML dissed it, doing it greatly complicates the descent and we weren't even clear where it went.
To descend: The rap from P2 to P1 is about 90'. From P1 to the base about 130'. Some jiggery-pokery required to keep ropes from getting soaked on the last rap.
As you might expect, this wide gear route doesn't get much traffic so test before yarding and helmets are advisable.
Attains nice position above the river.
P1. 5.9, 130'. Follow a wide crack up the corner to an anchor. The crux is in the first 30' above the starting block/pillar so you can blow most of your wide gear there. To facilitate communication, we broke this into two pitches, belaying after 40', atop the starting block/pillar.
P2: 5.10, 100'. Climb straight up easy cracks and a low-angle, right-facing corner until you encounter the crux, a 20' undercling/traverse along a wide fist crack. An anchor follows shortly.
P3: We didn't do this as ML dissed it, doing it greatly complicates the descent and we weren't even clear where it went.
To descend: The rap from P2 to P1 is about 90'. From P1 to the base about 130'. Some jiggery-pokery required to keep ropes from getting soaked on the last rap.
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