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The Bihedral (Upper Tier)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Fly in the Ointment T,S 
Acid Crack T 
Acid Rock T 
Bihedral T 
Bihedral Arete T,S 
Blood Diamond S 
Case of the Fags T 
Crack Variation T 
Dan's Line S 
Daydreaming T 
Diamonds and Rust S 
Dihedral Variation T,S 
Edge of Reality S 
Fat Tuesday T,S 
Flags of Our Fathers T,S 
Flesh Eating Flies S 
Group Therapy S 
Hesitantly Decisive T 
Heterohedral T 
High Hard One S 
Hold The Line S 
It's Time For Change T,S 
Just Putin Around T 
Left-Handed Tool T,S 
Night Moves T,S 
Oh Boy T,S 
Pariah S 
Puff Daddy S 
Rhodian Shores S 
Rhodian, Naturally T,TR 
Sands of Iwo Jima S 
Sun Spot T,S 
Thumb Tack T 
Tool King T,S 
Trick or Treat T,S 
Where's Ray? S 

Flags of Our Fathers 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Kent Lugbill & Greg Hand 11/3/06 & 12/15/06 & 3/14/2007
New Route: Yes
Fixed Hardware: 12 Lead Bolts, 6 Anchor Bolts [details]
Page Views: 5,719
Submitted By: Greg Hand on Nov 3, 2006

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Raising the flag on Iwo Jima.

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  • Description 

    Pitch1: Walk right from Where's Ray along a ledge to a yellow/orange lichen corner. Place a green Alien, and traverse right and up on easy rock to the first bolt. Place a blue Alien before the 2nd bolt and clip three more bolts as the rock gets steeper. Crux at last bolt. Fun climbing on small positive edges.

    Pitch2: (12/15/2006) Face climb up past 2 bolts and follow easy climbing to a 3rd bolt (crux). Small wire may be placed and climb up and left to 4th bolt and anchors above. May be climbed as 1 pitch.

    Pitch3: (3/14/2007) When doing the 3rd pitch, you should belay at the top of the first pitch of the Bihedral Arete. Climb just right of the belay (red Alien and small wire to protect a hard start), then follow 6 bolts to the new anchor slightly higher (and more comfortable) than the anchor for the Bihedral Arete. Crux is at the last 2 bolts.

    My father lasted 19 days on Iwo Jima before being injured.


    20 feet right of Where's Ray.


    Pitch 1: Four bolts to a 2-bolt anchor plus green and blue Alien.

    Pitch 2: Four bolts to a 2-bolt anchor plus small wires after 3rd bolt.

    Pitch 3: Red Alien plus small wire at the start, then 6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

    60 meter rope easily gets you to the ground from the second anchor.

    Photos of Flags of Our Fathers Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Approach to routes on the upper tier of the Bihedr...
    BETA PHOTO: Approach to routes on the upper tier of the Bihedr...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Kent Lugbill leading Where's Ray.
    BETA PHOTO: Kent Lugbill leading Where's Ray.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Just below the first pitch crux.
    Just below the first pitch crux.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Just finishing up the first pitch of Flags of Our ...
    Just finishing up the first pitch of Flags of Our ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: BenJordan & me getting an ascent of Flags last yea...
    BenJordan & me getting an ascent of Flags last yea...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching the crux on P1.
    Approaching the crux on P1.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Thin 5.10 edging on the first pitch.  Photo by Mik...
    Thin 5.10 edging on the first pitch. Photo by Mik...

    Comments on Flags of Our Fathers Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Gary Schmidt
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 19, 2007

    Got to lead the third pitch two days after it was put up. Thought it was a real nice pitch and certainly more than well worth doing. Echo Ron's words of good job to Greg and Kent. Have to admit though to wimping out a bit at the start and heading left for a bit. Somehow casting off into the unknown thin crack only protected by a small wire nut with the fall consequence being onto the anchor, it didn't seem like a good idea at the time, but next time!
    By tooTALLtim
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 16, 2007

    Great way to end Bihedral Arete if you didn't bring pro!
    By Jake Wyatt
    From: Longmont, CO
    Apr 30, 2007

    This is a nice climb with distinct and varied cruxes on each of the three pitches.
    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Jan 5, 2008

    I had to get out today after not climbing outside for 5 weeks. I self-belayed this just beating the rain. I did it as one pitch at about 200' with a few feet to spare. The distance is not accurate, because I was using my shortened 70m which is approximately but not exactly 60m. The P1 crux took me a long time. Tried to the right, straight up, to the left. Repeat. I eventually climbed to the right of the bolts. There is one hard move on each of P2 and P3, with the P3 move right off the ledge.
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    Feb 4, 2013

    Climbed today and only placed gear on the first pitch. Gear could be placed starting the third pitch, but it is not absolutely necessary.
    By James Hicks
    From: Grand Junction, CO
    Jan 20, 2014
    rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

    I should have paid closer attention to the route description.... Got up it with no gear, and it's doable that way, not that I can recommend anyone do it though. Just make sure and keep your wits about you, because a fall before clipping the first bolt or while below the second bolt could be quite bad without any gear in the crack. It's not super difficult, but it does get a bit thin.
    By Bruce Hildenbrand
    Jul 22, 2016

    The description for the third pitch reads:

    "When doing the 3rd pitch, you should belay at the 2nd belay of the Bihedral Arete."

    Shouldn't this actually read:

    "When doing the 3rd pitch, you should belay at the top of the first pitch of the Bihedral Arete."

    The term "2nd belay" is a bit confusing. Does that mean the belay for the start of the 2nd pitch (in this case probably, yes), but it might also mean at the end of the 2nd pitch (which in this case would be incorrect).

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