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Flacness Monster 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Flaco Flores
Page Views: 50
Submitted By: Flaco Flores on Jun 26, 2017

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Here is a picture of the first ascent!

Description 

The technical crux is at the start of the route, in between the 1st bolt and the 2nd bolt. It's a bouldery start, but goes into great hands for clipping the 2nd bolt. If you're not super comfortable with climbing 11's you might want to clip the 2nd bolt.

The second crux is an endurance crux (this route is roughly 28 meters tall). After you pull the first crux use your rest spots wisely; you will find yourself getting pumped throughout the rest of the route, which is sustained 5.10d fun!

Location 

This route is one of the first routes you will see when walking up to the Shipyard. There are two very nice belay ledges below the route (Man made by stacking logs), which you will walk right next to/on when going up to the main area. The Flacness Monster is located in the dihedral.

Protection 

You will need 14 draws, plus two draws for the anchors.

  • **Note, there is one permadraw on this route to help with cleaning the route. Clip into the permadraw when you're being lowered, otherwise it can be a real bearcat to clean the route.


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