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Myrtle 2 aka "Turtle Arches"
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alpine Dance Lessons T 
Arch Enemy T 
Dreams of Wild Corgis S 
FJL aka "Standard Route" T 
Harem Route, The T 
Have a Line S,TR 
Heather's Corner T 
In Over My Head T 
Sweeney's Edge S 
Underware Overhang T 
Unsorted Routes:

FJL aka "Standard Route" 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 500'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Dave Fulton, Steve Jeffries, Joe Lind
Season: summer/fall
Page Views: 251
Submitted By: Boundary County Climbers on Jul 21, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Excellent stemming and jamming on the 2nd pitch.

Description 

This is the route that inspired dozens of trips to the "arches" over the years! Multiple start options exist for the 1st 50m pitch. The left ramp is the easiest, yet still contains a runout slab traverse on small gear. The first ascentionists describe a fairly bold line directly up a seam/crack (R rated 5.9+) on small gear that leads to face climbing past 2 bolts (5.10-). The right start option climbs blocks and flakes, then "bear-hug" traverses left across and up a large hollow flake (don't place gear behind!!!) reaching the ledge below the 2 face bolts. All 3 options involve a great inside corner hand/finger crack before moving right onto the belay ledge 150ft up. Pitch 2 50m 5.9. Climb the stellar thought provoking inside corner to a bolt/chain anchor on the slab. Pitch 3 40m 5.9. An awkward mantel move over the belay leads up 8ft-right-down 10ft-and back up on fun moderate flakes. These flakes lead to easy face climbing past 2 bolts up to a comfortable bolt/chain belay ledge. Pitch 4 30m 5.8. A bolt protects the face climbing off the belay. Mildly dirty runout blocky terrain leads past 2 more bolts before the top bolt/chain anchor ledge, just below the clump of trees. Walk/scramble off left (southwest), or rappel the route with 2 ropes....or rappel with a single 60m rope down Sweeney's Edge.

Location 

The main two features are the clump of three trees directly above the route on top of the dome, and the dihedral second pitch.

Protection 

Double set of cams (0TCU-#3camalot), and set of nuts. Plenty of slings to keep rope drag down. bolt/chain anchors, 2 ropes to rappel the route.


Photos of FJL aka "Standard Route" Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: First pitch options for FJL (Standard Route)
BETA PHOTO: First pitch options for FJL (Standard Route)
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the stellar dihedral 2nd pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the stellar dihedral 2nd pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: The base of FJL and Sweeney's Edge
BETA PHOTO: The base of FJL and Sweeney's Edge

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