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YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
Page Views: 564
Submitted By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Jul 4, 2010

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This route climbs over several bulges along the left black streak. There are some good distances between some of the bolts but the climbing is generally easier during the gaps. Many of the holds can be difficult to find if not well chalked, be sure to feel around in the horizontals to find the best spots.

Grab some jugs and reach high to make the first clip. The hardest moves are just above getting to the second bolt. Continue up the water streak turning a few more bulges along the way.


This route is on the Fire Wall (upper) and climbs the left hand of the 3 black streaks.


5? bolts to chain anchors.

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By Matthias Lang
From: Albuquerque
Sep 4, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Found the crux moves to be 2/3 up and not any easier than the crux moves of Family Man. Because it is not as sustained as Family Man, I guess most people would agree that this route is easier, but since we use the YDS I gave it the same grade.
By LeeAB Brinckerhoff
From: ABQ, NM
Sep 5, 2012

Matthias, if, by your comment you are referencing the YDS referring to the single hardest move on a route. That was how it was initially intended to be used but that has been out dated for many years at this point. Pretty much all routes are graded based on the cumulative difficulty to make a clean ascent. If we stuck to the YDS grade only referring to the single hardest move then both Goliath (5.13a) and BOHICA (5.13b) would also be 5.12a, food for thought.
By Matthias Lang
From: Albuquerque
Sep 6, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I know of course that you are right and since this is a fairly new area it doesn't make much sense to use old standards, but I actually did find the bouldery crux 2/3 up and the beginning of FIYO a little harder than any FM moves, averaging things to the same grade (for me). But then again, I also suck at bouldering...
By the schmuck
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jul 11, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Very bouldery crux off the ground goes to easy climbing, and is followed by easier cruxes through couple more bulges, interspersed by more very easy climbing. Not very sustained, a little sandy, and not as fun as other routes on this wall.

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