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Baby Cakes T 
Better Red Than Dead T 
Bienvenidos T 
Black Streak T 
Chicken Heads T 
Chicken Shit T 
Clean Green Dream T 
Cryin' in the Rain T 
Dirty Black Nightmare T 
Dirty Diagonal T 
Dung Alley T 
Fine Little Line S 
Five Years After T 
Fried Chickens T 
Holthouse to Hell T 
Jug or Not S 
Mama Jugs T 
Ocho Diamentes (Tech-No-Star) S 
Rite of Summer Dreams T 
Seaman Girl T 
Serpent Face T 
Serpentine Crack T 
Summer Dreams T 
Suprise-Suprise T 
Techtonics T,S 
Techweenie S 
Threshold S 
To Bolt on Lead or Not to Bolt (TBOL) T 
Unknown (Left of Baby Cakes) T,S 
Unknown (Right of Mama Jugs) T,S 
Walking Dread T 

Five Years After 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,245
Submitted By: George Perkins on Sep 23, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Donna on Five Years After just below the cover pos...

Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>


The first half of 5 Years After is a popular sport and toprope climb at TP.

Climb Chicken Shit to a ledge, or scramble up 3rd class to its left. Continue up on solid flakes and positive holds to a 2-bolt anchor. It's 5.8 with closely spaced bolts up to this point; the 2nd bolt is not visible until it's at your nose. Most people lower from this anchor, but they are missing out. The adventurous can continue up a seldom-climbed and runout face (5.9 somewhat runout, at first, then easier above) between big flakes to the top of the rock. If you plan on continuing to the top, don't belay at the anchor, combine it into a single 190' pitch.


The face left of Chicken Heads and right of Dirty Diagonal. The 2 bolt anchor is obvious. Lower from that anchor with 1 rope, or walk off to the right if you top out.


2 bolts to the 2 bolt anchor midway up. If you stop here, only 4 quickdraws are needed (5 quickdraws, if starting with Chicken Shit).

If you plan on topping out, you'll need some gear to build an anchor up high at the top, and a light rack of cams and nuts to 3", including micros, to get there.

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By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 19, 2009

That's pretty cool to see TP on the cover of Climbing. But what's up with tilting the photo that much when you can see the horizon? :-) Or that just a super wide angle shot? I look forward to seeing the issue.
By LeeAB Brinckerhoff
From: ABQ, NM
Aug 19, 2009

No, it does not look like a super wide angle shot. The frame is definitely tilted to make it look steep and the anchor is partially hidden behind the title to make what is a descent route look like a steeper, longer plated granite 5.9.
By William Penner
From: The 505
Aug 19, 2009

I agree with Lee, poor photographic form. It is even funnier when all they had to do was photograph Techweenie or its 5.11 siblings for a true, vertical, plated-granite route that needs no tilting to do it justice.

Having read the article, I also question Matt's assessment of Clean Green Dream as the Solid Gold of TP and Serpentine Face as the Figures on a Landscape of TP. Figures is phenomenal and sustained and Serpentine is just pretty good with a really short crux; no real comparison. I can't fault Samet too much, he grew up in NM and like those of us who have lived here for a while, the perspective gets skewed. It must be the water from Los Alamos that does it. Articles about NM never seem to do it justice, which is good for keeping crowds away.

By Eric Whitbeck
Jun 18, 2012

Oh come on William and you know Semen Girl is the Astroman of northern NM.

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