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Five Star Crack 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 1,185
Submitted By: Kevin Heckeler on Apr 18, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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Good foot jams on Five-Star Crack


Climb left of dead tree to gain crack, take this past many horizontals to the top anchor.


20 feet right of Little Kisses at a hand crack.


Standard rack

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By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Apr 18, 2012

Very sustained. 5.8 is my current lead limit and this was just at it. Very high quality route with excellent moves. In Gary's guide for Lost T he says there's 27 consecutive 5.7/5.8 moves. I believe him.

Plenty of good rests and safe falls. As a budding 5.8 leader this was an excellent test piece. When done go top rope Little Kisses and while climbing it think about that next step up to leading 5.9 Big jump!
By Jay Harrison
Apr 20, 2012

A good neighbor to Little Kisses, this route protects very well. During the SAdkRF'11, Mega-Seamstress Em was able to place 24 pcs of pro evenly along the route.
If you want to learn the art of finding stances and placing gear, you can't do much better than this route.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Apr 26, 2012

I believe the picture I added for Little Kisses has Em on the right side with a harness loaded with gear accomplishing her feat.

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