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Five Pack 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 1977 Joe Herbst, Tom Kaufman, Larry Hamilton, Scott Woodruff, Steve Allen
Page Views: 3,929
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Steve Allen, belayed by Joe Herbst, completes the ...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This excellent route climbs the crack system on the right side of the Bottle.

Pitch 1: Climb up to a short chimney and follow it to the large ledge.

Pitch 2: Move to the right end of the ledge and climb straight up the crack system, which becomes an offwidth, followed by a beautiful handcrack.

Pitch 3: Climb up the dihedral a ways, then move left to avoid the large roof. Just above the roof, climb back right to gain the main dihedral on the right side of the Bottle. (Do not continue straight up the varnished crack above- it is a different route.) It may be desirable to belay just above the roof and then do a very short (10-15 foot) traverse to the right and set up a new belay in the dihedral.

Pitch 4: Go straight up the dihedral until it starts to lean right, then make a few face moves before regaining the jamcrack at the lip of the roof .

The main descent options are to either rappel Edge of the Sun via 3 long rappels from bolted stations, or continue to the top of the Magic Triangle formation via a few 5.5 pitches and go down the Crabby Appleton gully with a few short rappels.


Normal rack including at least one big cam (number 4 Camalot or bigger).

Photos of Five Pack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Arriving at the pitch 2 belay.
Arriving at the pitch 2 belay.
Rock Climbing Photo: "You want me to do what?!"  Sport climbe...
"You want me to do what?!" Sport climbe...
Rock Climbing Photo: Routes on the Bottle:  A) Bottle Bill,  B) Five Pa...
BETA PHOTO: Routes on the Bottle: A) Bottle Bill, B) Five Pa...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2 stembox.
Pitch 2 stembox.
Rock Climbing Photo: The base of pitch 1.
The base of pitch 1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Barely hanging on while searching for a comfortabl...
Barely hanging on while searching for a comfortabl...
Rock Climbing Photo: Me scoping out the final moves before attempting t...
Me scoping out the final moves before attempting t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Brett working the crux and gaining the corner, tha...
Brett working the crux and gaining the corner, tha...
Rock Climbing Photo: Brett making his way up the face moves just prior ...
Brett making his way up the face moves just prior ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Brett rounding the corner after traversing the roo...
Brett rounding the corner after traversing the roo...
Rock Climbing Photo: A look up at the 4th pitch corner
BETA PHOTO: A look up at the 4th pitch corner
Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching the end of the beautiful jamcrack on p...
Approaching the end of the beautiful jamcrack on p...

Comments on Five Pack Add Comment
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By L. Hamilton
Mar 1, 2005

Historical note: The name "Bottle Bill," a Joe Herbst pun, alludes to a beverage-container deposit law that was being debated in Nevada at the time -- and of course also to the formation's bottle-like shape. "Five Pack" connected this theme to the 5-man FA party.
By jblackattack blac
From: las vegas, nv
Oct 23, 2008

Did this route yesterday and found it to be a very fun route. Definitely advisable to stay with in the cracks when possible. Found lots of loose friable rock just outside the cracks on the first 3 pitches which keeps you honest for sure. 4th pitch was great with the roof and final lay back capping it all off
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Feb 9, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

If the 4th pitch were in a single pitch environment it would be a 4-star classic. The very fluid movement of 5.8 crack and face climbing culminates with a burly and extremely pleasing finish. Some of the best 5.10 climbing, although brief, I have done in RR.
By Cunning Linguist
Feb 10, 2012

Any comments on the Edge of the Sun raps, Andy? I had theorized that the anchors might need some work.....

Jblack, great photos! Makes me want to jump on this thing!
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Feb 10, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Well, yes, some observations about the anchors on Edge of the Sun: the top anchors' bolts look okay but older SMC anchors always kind of tweak me out. The top anchors could use some chains. Gina and I did a full 200 foot rap to a ledge that is the 1st pitch belay for Edge of the Sun. Although this isn't the recommended rap it worked out OK for us... but we had to come totally off rappel and walk about 10 feet to the anchors. The reason why we ended up here and not at the top of the 2nd pitch of Edge of the Sun was because I failed to locate those anchors (hidden?). The anchor at the 1st pitch belay of Edge of the Sun is in some serious need of replacement. The 3rd (if rappelled the prescribed way that is west into the Crabby Appleton gully) rappel anchor looks to be in good condition. It'd be worth it to go up there and take a look for yourself though.
By Cunning Linguist
Feb 13, 2012

Will probably just do em ground up with a couple of volunteers to help schlep all the replacement gear, thanks for the info. Had thought maybe just some new webbing, sounds like actual work, though.
By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Apr 23, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I liked this route a lot. You can skip the mediocre 1st pitch by 3rd classing in from the left. Save some hand size cams for belay at the top of the second pitch. A #5 C4 camalot is handy for protecting the wide bit on pitch 2.

@Andy- the second pitch anchors of Edge of The Sun are about 120' down from the top. You have to work west a bit to get to them, but they're easy to see. They're visible on the arete after you pull the roof on pitch 3.
By Mary Lane
From: Nevada
Feb 22, 2016

Notes: My main note is that the description for this route must have been written by a big dude. I am 5'8" female with hands larger than most girls I meet. If he says handjam it was a fistjam, if he says fistjam it was stacks and butterflies. Great route, very unique and still riddled with friable rock but that shouldn't stop you from climbing it. 3 double rope raps from Edge of the Sun to the west, it was getting dark but the rap stations all appeared to be in decent shape and were not difficult to locate. We still haven't quite dialed the approach to the base of the Bottle but its never too bad.

Gear: Double rack .3-#1, triples #2 & #3, single #4 & #5, nuts. This was plenty and made us feel very safe.

P1: skipped by scrambling up behind a tower from climbers left via relative easy terrain + a couple of heads up moves with a little exposure

P2: Unless you are solid on OW or competent 5.10 trad leader you absolutely want a #5. "Beautiful handcrack" for only about the last 20 ft of the route, was cupped hands for me (female). Some (easy)bouldery moves off the deck. Very fun, protects well, straightforward pitch with some friable rock. Build anchor with any gear in the .75-#3 range

P3: Head directly up the corner and traverse left under the roof or head left off the deck onto the arete. Poor protection and friable rock until you come over the bulge and traverse back right into the crack. .75 was key to protect above the arete. Rope drag was a bitch.

P4: Head left into the huge, looming corner. Depending on where you belay makes a difference but about 20 ft before the actual roof that juts out to the right there is a 4"-5" wide ledge that you will traverse right onto. The 5.7 "huecos" are hard to see until you are right on top of them and are only 5.7 if you are 6ft tall. I am 5'8" and the "huecos" although very good were extremely reachy for me and there is no pro until you regain the corner. Definitely save a #4 for the final section of the pitch that was stacks (not fists) for me and my boyfriend.

Another classic adventure up Magic Mountain. Does anyone know why it is called MM? I have always been curious.

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