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Five O'Clock T 

Five O'Clock 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A2 PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 270', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A2 PG13 [details]
FA: Sam Lightner, September 2007
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer
Page Views: 22
Submitted By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Dec 2, 2007

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1 climb a deterioriating crack to a double bolt anchor. The crux is high and requires some Peckers. 80 feet.
P2 free clmb the corner with loose rock but really fun climbing. At the ledge slip back into the aiders and pull on a bolt, then a few aid moves, then two more bolts to get past the giant detached flake. A few more Lost Arrow placements and you hit the roof. Climb over it and follow the crack on mid size cams. Its probably possible to climb the corner, but its mankier rock. Eventually pull out of the aiders and free climb (5.9) the wider crack on soft holds. Pull over the lip and clip the anchor. The pitch is a rope stretcher, like 190 feet.
Rap the route… watch the ends.

Location 

North Face splitter

Protection 

I had 4 X everything to friends 3.5 and wanted more in the small to mid. You need some Lost Arrows and blades, plus a #6 is helpful up high.


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