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Five for Five 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a R

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a R [details]
FA: Jonathan Croom, July 2017
New Route: Yes
Season: not summer
Page Views: 63
Submitted By: Jonathan Croom on Aug 7, 2017

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This is the most direct route to the summit of the butte. The anchor also provides the best rappel route from the summit. Five bolts were hand drilled on lead on the FA, hence the name. The rock is pretty good for Papago, but terrible by any other standard. You are forced to climb through much loose rock, which warrants an R/X rating.

The route starts at an exposed belay with a single bolt. Traverse left to a second bolt, then go up and left to clip a third bolt before running it out to the anchor straight above.

Note: about 20 feet left of the anchor is a beehive. They didn't bother me at all, but bee careful.


From the pullout on McDowell, head up the loose slope under the large, obvious overhanging wall. About halfway up, scramble onto a third class ledge. Follow this ledge up to belay at the first bolt, above the notch.


Three bolts plus two bolt anchor.

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