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> Five Fingers Area
Five Fingers
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 1.7 from 12
votes
Routes in Five Fingers Area
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Bitterfingers T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Chicken Chickenhead T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Fat Man's Misery T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Five Fingers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hornet's Rest T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Scumbag Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Tenderloin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Waltz, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 75 ft (23 m) |
| FA: | Bob and Wilf Bruschke, Ted Wilson, 1960 |
| Page Views: | 2,220 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Ryan Brough on Apr 18, 2007 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
One route with a whole lot of climbing options, Five Fingers is a series of bottoming cracks and grooves that parallel each other, creating "fingers" in between. Most of these options are easy, but the climbing is technical. The rock quality is sharp and gritty, which tends to exfoliate individual crystals. Deeper in the cracks, the rock quality improves significantly, providing more security for jamming and the occasional jug. There crack on the far right is wider than the rest, and is probably the most difficult (5.7).
Location
Five Fingers is a distinct "finger-like" formation situated in the middle of the Gate Buttress. It is above and to the west of the Dihedrals Area and to the east of the Schoolroom Rappel Area. The approach is awkward from all directions. The most direct approach is to climb the Prune Face Slab and then continue straight up the gully, staying on the right side. A scary third class approach is required from the Dihedrals Area, and a third class slab traverse is necessary from the Schoolroom Rappel Area. Start along the base of the cracks where the gully starts. There is a tree about 15 feet from the edge at the top of the cliff with several slings and two old rappel rings. One single rope rappel gains the gully.
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