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Five Fingers Area

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chicken Chickenhead T 
Fat Man's Misery T 
Five Fingers T 
Hornet's Rest T 
Scumbag Crack T 
Tenderloin T 
Waltz, The T 

Five Fingers Area Rock Climbing 


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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Apr 23, 2004
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BETA PHOTO: Five Fingers Area, named for the series of cracks ...

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A relatively easy area, with mainly trad routes. Some protect well, others don't. If you are looking for an alternate spot to climb when Schoolroom is busy, come here. The rock is a little dirtier then the rest of Gate.

Getting There 

Approach as per Schoolroom, and continue east, along the trail which turns into a ledge system.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.4 miles from here

7 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',6],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Five Fingers Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Five Fingers Area:
Hornet's Rest   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Five Fingers Area

Featured Route For Five Fingers Area
Rock Climbing Photo: The Waltz crux is in green.  Fun liebacking sequen...

Waltz, The 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : Five Fingers Area
An interesting start leads to a an easy wide crack. The start is an undercling that leads to a length of liebacking, along good rock. It then has the odd move as you work from one wide crack to another. Finally, after you pass a slung tree and horn, you come to a divergence: a really steep offwidth/squeeze on the right or an easy wide crack to the left. The climb goes left. I tried right but the rock was rotten. All in all a nice lower sequence followed by an easy upper sequence.WARNING !! ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Five Fingers Area Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: An overview of the left side of the Five Fingers A...
BETA PHOTO: An overview of the left side of the Five Fingers A...
Rock Climbing Photo: The awkward belay from the pine tree at the right ...
BETA PHOTO: The awkward belay from the pine tree at the right ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking back on the traverse from 'Fat Man's Ledge...
BETA PHOTO: Looking back on the traverse from 'Fat Man's Ledge...
Rock Climbing Photo: Five Fingers Area  Black-Callitwhatyouplease  Pink...
Five Fingers Area Black-Callitwhatyouplease Pink...

Comments on Five Fingers Area Add Comment
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By Mark P Thomas
From: Draper
May 15, 2017
This area has two main approaches, the first is to the ledge beneath what I'd call the Left Side of Five Fingers Area. The second is to the Center-Right side of Five Fingers, ending at a big ledge beneath Fat Man's Misery (which I will call Fat Man's Ledge here), which has a large pine tree on the right side.

Left Side Approach
The belay ledge is reached via a straightforward cl. 3-4 scramble up the first part of Stone the Crows, just beyond CallItWhatYouPlease. It is the steep gully filled with blocks and some trees.

You can also start it by first traversing low from the left side of Fat Man's Ledge (e.g. if you are working 5 Fingers area right-to-left). Do a broad step across to some fins & hand-sized jam and you're off! A belay might be nice for this traverse.

Rock Climbing Photo: Looking back on the traverse from 'Fat Man's Ledge...
Looking back on the traverse from 'Fat Man's Ledge' to the belay ledge used for the Left Side routes. The highest piece of pro is on the bottom of Tenderloin.


Center-Right Side Approach
This describes the approach to Fat Man's Ledge. You can set a gear anchor at the far left end here and it is the most convenient ledge in this area for sitting down & placing packs. The approach passes most other routes.

From beneath the scramble to the Left Side, continue walking along the base of the cliff. You will reach an exposed and improbable traverse across a cl. 3-4 mottled slab. Footholds are good, but a fall would be bad. Many people might appreciate a belay here. The best line is to scramble down low, and mostly traverse straight across and occasionally lower in order to have the best features.

You can continue straight up a dirty chimney groove and brush to reach the pine tree that marks the right edge of Fat Man's Ledge, or you can climb up & zig right to end up in the grooves beneath the Five Fingers Routes. From here you can continue right, or zag back left for a cleaner approach to the pine tree. A belay might be enjoyed on this section as well, although it isn't quite as exposed.

While the pine tree is a good landmark, it is awkward to hang out at and belay from, and seems best for belaying Scumbag Crack. For Fat Man's Misery, it may be nicer to belay from the gear anchor on Fat Man's Ledge, traverse right to start, and climb high before placing gear.

Rock Climbing Photo: The awkward belay from the pine tree at the right ...
The awkward belay from the pine tree at the right end of Fat Man's Ledge. I think this belay is only a good idea for climbing Scumbag Crack.

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