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Five Finger Discount 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: R. Laird and C. Laird
New Route: Yes
Fixed Hardware: 2 Anchor Bolts [details]
Page Views: 3,297
Submitted By: ryan laird on Sep 16, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (109)
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Getting away with it.

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The route begins approximately 15 feet to the left of Lunch Money (just right of Cheap Labor). Easy climbing leads up the face below a short roof. Continue through the flaky/juggy roof and past a few ledges to the base of a clean headwall. Interesting, body positioning moves through the headwall will take you to the anchor.

The climbing to the base of the headwall follows the natural weakness in this area of the cliff. The route continues straight through the headwall to create a crux finish.

Protection 

Bolted. As of 2017, top anchor is 2 stainless steel rings and a 3rd hangered bolt on the left that can be clipped while toproping.


Photos of Five Finger Discount Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan leading FFD.
Ryan leading FFD.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking for a discount.
BETA PHOTO: Looking for a discount.

Comments on Five Finger Discount Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeremy
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 20, 2010

Another indication that I was climbing horribly today. This route wasn't in our book and I would have given it an 11 rating. To me this was at least a number grade harder than the surrounding routes.

Did a hold break off the sloper headwall?
By Dale D
From: Parker, CO
Jul 29, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A tad more difficult than Lunchmoney, which requires a little bit of muscle. More balance than brawn will get you through the crux up high - last two bolts.
By L Kap
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 24, 2015

The crux at the smoothish headwall requires a couple of high steps. To get up onto the intial bulge at the headwall, move right. Hard move if you have weak quads like I do, but there are decent (not great) hands if you look for them.
By aikibujin
From: Castle Rock, CO
May 1, 2017
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I thought this was just as fun as Lunch Money. The bottom part is easier, and the top crux is about the same difficulty. The cold shut anchors are about 1/4 way worn through. The lone bolt to the left looks to be in great shape, but there is no lowering gear.
By Bruce Hildenbrand
May 8, 2017

Greg Barnes and I replaced the two cold shuts at the anchor with Petzl SS hangers and SS quicklinks and rings. The original bolts are 3/8" x 3.5" SS wedge anchors, so we did not replace them. The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association(www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.

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