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Graining Fork Nature Preserve (a.k.a. Roadside Crag)
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Five Finger Discount 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: T. Anderson, M. Hackworth
Page Views: 4,113
Submitted By: Mike on Sep 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (103)
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BETA PHOTO: Pic of route

Access to GFNP (Roadside) REQUIRES a Daily Permit MORE INFO >>>

Permit Required 

***Climbers MUST NOT climb at GFNP without a daily permit per person in each group.*** This route is privately owned and requires a daily per-user permit obtained from the Graining Fork Nature Preserve website.
This isn't about just you getting away with climbing for a day without a permit--this is about the climbing community respecting private land to ensure continued access privileges. Don't be selfish--get a permit.

Description 

A nice thin crack and face just left of Fatha, this route appears harder than 5.8 from the base but is easier than it looks. Climb the low-angle ramp up and left, then step left into a beautiful thin carck and flake to the top.

Location 

This route is just left of Fatha, about 75' left of Roadside attraction. To get to Roadside Crag drive about 6 miles South on KY 11 from the rest area and park on the right. The trailhead is across the street, and a short approach leads to the base of the wall at the start of Roadside Attraction.

Protection 

Bring a rack with mostly small gear and only a couple of larger pieces to maybe 2". There is a bolted belay at the top.


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By Adam Steel
From: Salt Lake City
Jan 16, 2007

I've climbed it twice and never found anchors at the top. I've had to traverse right to anchors above 'Motha'. Spicy for 5.8.
By Chris Chaney
From: Stanton, Kentucky
Feb 7, 2007

Angle left onto the pale face under the overhanging headwall. There are metolius rap anchors there. The old anchors were the rap anchors over Jump for Joy (above that route's anchors). Originally you rapped from trees on the ledge or left gear at the top of the crack.
By joe disciullo
From: Charlotte, NC
Dec 8, 2009

This climb was all smiles and giggles. Super fun moves, perfect pro. Would be great for someone breaking the grade. Wish it was 1000 feet longer :)
By Shawn Heath
Administrator
From: Forchheim, Germany
Aug 17, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I did this months before I finally got on Roadside Attraction (Roadside was icy in Feb, this one was nice and dry the whole way). I thought Roadside was harder than Five Finger Discount. I went ahead and agreed with the 5.8 rating though because there may have been one 5.8 move that I don't remember. It's a breeze and is very secure. I probably felt more secure than Roadside because I didn't fully "get" jamming then.
By bobby lane
From: Seattle, WA
Nov 8, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Maybe I have fat fingers because I barely fit them in on this crack, it felt comparable to other 5.9's in the red, however maybe it differs from the opinion of those w/ small fingers...
By Backwards Eric
Apr 22, 2016

Gear (C4 sizes): #.3 (2), #.4, #.5, #1, some nuts.
By Vlary K
Apr 7, 2017

I am new to crack climbing and I actually had fun with this one. Some part might be a little hard because I was trying to figure out my body position. And it kinda helps if you have smaller fingers to jam in the smaller cracks. Would definitely climb it again next time.

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