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Rincon - Center Route & R
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Toprope Left of Spicoli TR 
Warp Riders T 

Five-Eight Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: unknown
Fixed Hardware: 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 3,071
Submitted By: Patrick Vernon on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (182)
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Five-Eight Crack. June 2010.

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  • Description 

    This is a decent lead or toprope (you have to lead it first). It is pretty short. Take a right-leaning crack to a tree festooned with webbing. It is located on the right side of the Rincon. 1p, 70'.


    I'm [surprised] Rossiter didn't give this an S rating. The route is quite tricky for the grade, does not have good gear till after a 5.8 move twenty feet up, and is [definitely] not a good route for a first 5.8 trad lead.

    Photos of Five-Eight Crack Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Me above the crux at the second pro.
    Me above the crux at the second pro.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Just a little while later, that RP fell right out ...
    Just a little while later, that RP fell right out ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Aaron plugging in 1/3 of the gear used on this rou...
    Aaron plugging in 1/3 of the gear used on this rou...
    Rock Climbing Photo: About 25 ft up 5.8 crack.
    About 25 ft up 5.8 crack.

    Comments on Five-Eight Crack Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 13, 2015
    By Joe Keyser
    From: Scottsdale, AZ
    Jan 1, 2001

    I agree, I thought 5.8 crack seemed just as tricky as 5.10 crack... Maybe eaiser moves, but, the difficulty is at the bottom where you get one [piece] of "mental pro." If you get sketched out, try leaning back, and resting against the tree that is directly behind the route, you can chimney between that, and the rock for a little bit of the start. Fun route!
    By Andrew Klein
    Dec 21, 2001

    You can stick a blue Alien in an undercing about 10 feet up, after that there's not much for pro for the next 15 or 20 feet(.8). If you consider Tagger's first pitch an "s" rating, this route would be considered one as well. Cheat on the tree if need be. Stays in the sun till about 3:00 (on 12/18/01).
    By Andrew Klein
    Dec 30, 2001

    The tree in question is at the base of the climb. I assume most people won't be repelling a flat dirt section at the base of Rincon, but then again.. I do agree however that the rap tree for the routes in this area is getting shotty. One day it will probably be replaced by a bolted rap station, or perhaps instead, a "vs" rated 6 foot jump to the big tree and 60 foot "bear-hug fireman's slide" down to the base.
    By Michael Walker
    From: Loveland, CO
    Aug 4, 2002

    Feeling great about leading 5.10 crack, I thought this would have seem a logical warm down. Bad assumption. The pro indeed sucks until about 30 feet off the ground, well past the crux. And about that crux - good gravy. I looked at the book and realized that 5.8+ crack was put up by Bob Culp and Bob Lagrange in 62'. The + obviously meant that there was no 5.9 in those days...5.10 crack was led in 73 by the Briggs boys, and they indeed had 5.10 climbs. A little historical perspective on the apparent disparity in grading these routes.
    By Casey Bernal
    From: Arvada, CO
    Sep 9, 2002

    There is a good BD #4 steel nut at the crux in a corner before the small overlap about 10 feet above the undercling. This makes it seem much more safe.

    casey bernal
    By Ben Mottinger
    Founding Father
    Sep 20, 2002
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    The route may warrant an s rating, but you can definitely get some reasonable gear in before the 20' mark. After the first hard move (at about 10'), it sews up if you have some small RPs and cams. If you are a new 5.8 leader you will probably want to hold off on this one though.
    By Anonymous Coward
    May 14, 2003

    Did this as my first 5.8 trad lead today. Given that I've never trad lead anything above 5.6 I didn't feel the moves were any harder than the guide's .8 rating nor the protection meriting an "s" let alone "vs" rating. The undercling 10' up easily took my #2 Metolius 4cam (or a #3 6" to the left) and more several more nice cam placements higher up. That poor tree at the top of the route needs a 30 year break from rappels.
    By Michael Kullman
    Oct 10, 2004

    Yep, the pro sucks for the first 15' or so of this climb. It's a fun little route, just don't fall before you get in some solid gear ;-)
    By Anonymous Coward
    Nov 9, 2004

    Well, the comments here make me feel a bit better. I should have read this page first.

    My thrilling (and somewhat embarassing) story: I pulled my one piece of "mental pro," a cam in the undercling 10 feet or a bit less off the ground, in a semi-controlled fall I took as I was attempting to bail. As someone leading 5.8 at my limit, I didn't want to risk climbing higher. As it was, my fall amounted to a big jump. I'm pretty relieved about the whole uninjured ankle, etc. situation.

    Man, it looked like there would be better pro. 5.8 face seems a more apt name for the bottom of this climb. Yeah, I'll just remain an AC on this one....
    By Kenneth Noisewater
    From: San Diego
    Sep 26, 2006

    Great route.
    But thin, thin, thin for 5.8. One Yellow TCU at 10 ft then nothing for the next 15-20 ft. If you are squirrely above small stuff, and learning to lead gear, this is not a good choice. The pure technical grade is stiff, AND add some spice, a new leader is not having a good day. The 10a crack to the left is more fun, and closer to accurate.
    By Mike Epke
    From: Denver, CO
    Oct 10, 2006

    I definitely agree with an S rating on this. I tried to get an Alien into the undercling, but it felt like it was very poor, so I moved up a bit and placed a small nut before making the crux move. Once through the crux, the climb will take small cams and even a #1 Camalot near the top to prevent a big [swing] by someone toproping the climb. Fun and thought-provoking for someone like myself just getting into 5.9 leading, however.
    By Adam McFarren
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    May 21, 2011

    Didn't find this to be S at all. That undercling will take a green C3 or purple MasterCam plus a pink tricam (nose down). Micro nuts and a standard rack will sew this up. I also saw someone place a good 0.4 C4 in that undercling (further right, same spot I placed the tricam).
    By Tommey-James
    From: Boulder,Colorado
    Jul 11, 2011
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

    Small run out close to ground, easy not to fall, though. Fun route, worth doing if have done all other climbs in area, higher up climbing is really fun.
    By Joseph Stover
    From: Batesville, AR
    Aug 11, 2011
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

    Good route, as long as you are comfortable at runout 5.8, so definitely not for a novice 5.8 leader. Has anyone ever fallen at the crux and still declared that it doesn't get an R?
    By Benten
    From: Denver
    Jan 2, 2012
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

    I am solid at 5.10, and all this took worth placing was a blue TCU and a small nut, 1 foot apart. The rest of the "gear" would have been pointless. Just don't fall, how about that? Great, short, little route though for leaders trying to get comfortable on 5.8 without gear in Eldo.
    By Joe Brannan
    From: Lyons, CO
    Jul 15, 2012

    I lead at a 5.9 level comfortably. Found this to be pretty simple to protect with small wires through the bottom 20 feet, then it sews up above. Use a zipper tri-cam at the base. Not an S or even PG13.
    By Jason Antin
    From: Golden, CO
    Apr 13, 2015
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

    I climbed this route on Saturday (4/11/2015), and I thought it was a very straightforward 5.8, but I would not recommend this route to a budding 5.8 leader. I thought the lower moves were a little cruxy, considering the pro was not straightforward, nor did I trust that gear entirely to catch a fall. Once you get about 20' up, I felt all the gear was solid.

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