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Five Card Draw 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Rex Wolters
Season: Summer & early Fall
Page Views: 2,726
Submitted By: Lee Frazer on Jun 11, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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The approach from the small pullout on the road.

Description 

This climb is on large slab right of Gold Rush ice climb. It is immediately left of Silver Stage and is 3 pitches (30m each) in length. Please note that the second pitch contains a runout section between the first and second bolt, which is marginally protectable with a small nut or cam.

Protection 

12 quickdraws and a 60 meter rope. Helmets would be a good idea as a party on Silver Stage could kick rock onto this climb. Rappel the route.


Photos of Five Card Draw Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Your destination is the slab on the left.
Your destination is the slab on the left.
Rock Climbing Photo: This route's located on the left side of this phot...
This route's located on the left side of this phot...

Comments on Five Card Draw Add Comment
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By Clint Cook
Aug 6, 2009

Hey Guys,

I put this up a couple years ago, it still needs a couple bolts on the 1st pitch to do it like I wanted, Eurostyle. 4 30m raps. I thought it was 5.7 and the one on the right was 5.8. Didn't mean to sandbag. I called it the 14 Carat Mind, but Pancho and Lefty is great. One of my all-time favorite songs. Glad to hear someone else has climbed it. I'll get over and finish the job, sorry.

Cheers, Clint Cook
By Lee Frazer
From: Durango, Colorado
Aug 13, 2009

Yes, great song (I'm a Townes Van Zandt fan myself). The guys in Silverton consider this a 5.9 and I could see that. Though most of it felt 5.7-5.8, there's a short section near the top of the first pitch that could go 9.
By Lee Frazer
From: Durango, Colorado
Sep 2, 2009

Thanks Rex. Will make the change! The .11 you put up looks fun.
By Clint Cook
Sep 27, 2009

Hey Guys,

I thought Five Card Draw followed the protectable crack features which the sport line crosses a couple times. I climbed that a couple times and thought the better climb was on the slabs surrounding the features. I did not mean to retrobolt anything. I thought it seemed like an independent line.
By chosspector
From: San Juans, CO
Sep 28, 2009

Clint, I think it is a great line and you did a good job bolting it. I guess it's hard to tell what the 'line' is on that wall, it's all really climbable. The Petzl stainless bolts you used are bomber, thanks for spending the extra $$ to ensure a safe long lasting route.
By Lee Frazer
From: Durango, Colorado
Sep 29, 2009

I agree. The retro-bolting on Five Cart Draw was well done, Clint. It's a fun climb, and made all the more fun w/ the safe bolting.
By ozman
From: CO / NM
Sep 18, 2011

Good route. Much cleaner than Eureka Pillar. This would have some spicy moves for 5.7; I'd grade those moves at 5.9 as well. I hate slabs though. I'd leave the doubles at home. Easy 30m raps with a single 60m rope. You would still have to make 2 raps with doubles, so saving one single rap is not worth dragging another rope up there. Not as dirty as everyone says. However, with any alpine-like climb, be a good steward and help clean the route. Car to car took us 2 hours. Did this the same morning as Hard Rock Miner on the Eureka Pillar. Nice bolt job.
By Cody Ferguson
From: Durango, CO
Aug 12, 2016

Did this route yesterday afternoon. 3 pitches, 300' total, 100' per pitch. It's a rope stretcher, but it is possible to do this with one 60m rope with 3 30m raps to the ground.
By greg rosselol
Jul 10, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great route, runout on P2 has a spot in the gully for #2 tricam and #7 stopper a bit higher. I saw someone had bailed at lower draw. This route may need another bolt for the beginning leader. Take a 0.1 Camalot to anchor belayer on ledge at start or stick clip first bolt. We were glad to have a 70m for the rap.

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