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Fits and Starts 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 850', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Season: Spring/fall for rock, winter for mixed
Page Views: 34
Submitted By: Derek DeBruin on Sep 4, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: View of the bulge buttress routes, taken from abov...

Description 

From the top of the approach ridge (see description for "Avoiding the Issue" mountainproject.com/v/avoiding... ), head up, trending right toward the left side of the large, overhanging bulge in the upper third of the buttress. Many variations are possible for the first half of the route, from low 5th to 5.6 or so.

Once the wall steepens consistently (near a sizeable tree down and left of the overhangs), climb up on good horizontals for about 30m to the large left-facing corner that defines the left side of the overhanging buttress. 5.6.

From just below and left of the roofs of the bulging buttress, continue up through the corner on good horizontals and the occasional vertical crack, belaying at a ledge near the top of the bulges. 5.8, 30m.

From here, either head up and right on easier terrain with many blocks following the weaknesses, or finish via a 5.9 crack exit on the left through a small roof.

Location 

Start atop the approach ridge and angle up and right.

Protection 

Singles to #3 with a couple extra hand size pieces.


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