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Fairy Cave Wall
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Fists of Fairy S 

Fists of Fairy 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Ch'ien Lee and Glen MacNair ( 2005)
Page Views: 19
Submitted By: Glen Charnoski on Nov 2, 2011

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From the stairway the leader "Batman Starts" to the first bolt on top of the cave entrance. The second will need to prusik or jumar up the rope by himself!

Pitch 1 (6a+): Awkward first move, then up and right diagonal, then up again (crux) to the belay station (hanging belay).

Pitch 2 (5.6b): Straigt up then move right (crux) and further up (pumpy) to a ledge with a belay station.

Pitch 3 (6b+): Step up left on the big block (it moves!) to clip the first bolt. Then climb up through a technical crux and mantle to a big ledge (optional belay station). Easy climbing up to the right gets you to base of Nepenthes Wall with a double-bolt belay/abseil station. Rap or enter the cave and follow the path/stairs back out the cave.


The route is located at the top of the white tower leading into Fairy Cave, right above the entrance, at the top of the final steps.


Many bolts, with 2 bolt anchors.

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