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The Wedge
Routes Sorted
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Beast of Burden T 
Book of Easy Learning T 
Fisticuffs T 
Ghost of a Smile S 
Leggo My Ego S 
Nineveh T 
Not of this State S 
Timeless T 
Vein Imagination T 
Wisdom T 

Fisticuffs 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Matt Kline, Wes Schaffer, '96
Page Views: 308
Submitted By: Mat Brunton on Jul 12, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Fisticuffs, Leggo My Ego, Ghost of a Smile (L-R)

Description 

Climb a clean fist crack, with featured faces on both sides, through a very small roof exiting left in the rock choked upper crack to a large tundra ledge with gear or sling belay.

Location 

Peak 4160 (Wedge ridge) NE aspect towers at ~3000' elevation. Above and to the right of Wisdom and Book of Easy Learning. Can be accessed by scrambling up gully and going left to a large ledge above Wisdom and Book of Easy Learning or climbing either of those climbs and going right on the ledge above them. Walk off.

Protection 

Gear to 4". Anchor with long runners or cord on a large horn/buried boulder feature. This feature also has a ~1-2" crack for a gear belay. Other anchor options may exist.


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Rock Climbing Photo: Fisticuffs
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By Mat Brunton
Jul 12, 2015

Be very careful of rock fall in this area! It is a hazard scrambling to and from climbs. It is a hazards on climbs. Triggered rock fall is a hazard to others in the area due to the channeled nature of the terrain where climbs are located. Be mindful of other parties!
By andy ducomb
From: anchorage
Aug 15, 2015

any word on the corner to the left of fisticuffs? i had a nice time getting spit out of it once.
By Mat Brunton
Aug 15, 2015

The dirty crack left of Fisticuffs is reportedly a 5.7, gear to 2", FA Eric Sloan 1996.
By L. Von Dommelheimer
Administrator
From: Anchorage
Jun 25, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Soft for the grade when compared to Timeless. Super enjoyable, left a second double length runner on the slung block, a crack exists to the right for medium/small cams.

Route is about 50ft of climbing.
By Mat Brunton
Jun 27, 2017

SCAR guide has it rated at 5.10- I believe. Definitely thought that was warm and fuzzy, especially relative to other area routes.

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