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Fist of Fury 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Shaun Reed, Ben Hamilton, Phil Powers
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 627
Submitted By: Shaun Reed on Oct 29, 2015

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Shaun Reed pulling the lip on his route Fist of Fu...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

We did this route a few years ago now (2011?) and I may not have the details quite right. This route is 5 - 10 minutes to the left of Bunny Slope, around the corner. I still need to go back and put a plaque at the base, but the route has an obvious fist to OW crack roof traverse (the route's namesake) about 80 or 90 ft up that is about 10 ft long. The crack starts off the ground as fingers and slowly widens to hands before the roof, then good fists and liebacking through the roof. I think you can get by with a double rack of cams up to BD#3, then at least one #4 and #5, and probably a #6 above the lip. Crack is very clean, but we did have to pull off a 15 ft tall skinny block in the middle of the route, which is probably why nobody had done it before. The rock above the roof is a bit crumbly, but not too difficult. When I did the route, I remember my fists fit perfectly (normal size male hands) and it felt like climbing one of those peg boards we had in gym class.

Two bolt anchor at the top. I'm pretty sure a 60m rope will get you down.

Have fun!


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