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Hog Heaven
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Fist Grease 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: J.Sands, J.Ficker, J.Waugh
Season: Not Summer
Page Views: 124
Submitted By: sean peters on Jan 8, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Fist Grease is the right angling crack

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Not brave enough to go for the lead we set up a top rope and quickly realized that leading it might be safer....Either way we had a blast and no-one got hurt.
Powerful moves start immediately and continue for a ways until you exit the fist sized crack into some funky and tricky climbing. The crack is solid and protectable for its entirety.
Although I did not lead this gem it still ranks as one of my favorites in the McDowell's.


This route is on a large boulder that sits above and to the right of the Main Wall. As you approach the Hog Heaven area it will be the first formation you encounter but it is several yards uphill off the approach trail. The route/crack angles towards the right and will be obvious as you bushwhack to the start.


Complete rack with doubles of #3 for the start. No anchors at the top but easily walked off.

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