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YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 141
Submitted By: adam winslow on Apr 11, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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This is a grunt that will force you to use everything from hand and fist jams, to armbars, sidepulls, and possibly even some chimney techniques. Much of the route can be done with a left armbar, a right hand or fist jam, and working the feet up the double cracks. Towards the top, things change as the cracks offset more and the outer portion of each crack forms a "double arete squeeze chimney" (if such a thing actually exists). Probably as many ways to climb this next 20 feet as there are climbers. Exit over a block wedged between the two cracks (reachy and strenuous) to a chain anchor.


This is the double crack route just to the left of Suzuki, which is the double crack route just to the left of the unmistakable Mr Squiggles. The left crack is an offwidth and the right crack is a gradually widening hand crack. Towards the top of the climb the outer side of each crack juts out further from its inner side forming a unique "double arete squeeze chimney" that will give climbers of different sizes each their own unique experience trying different climbing techniques as they ascend this feature.


Choose which crack to protect - Left crack: pro to 6", Right crack: pro to 4.5". Of course you could protect in both if you feel so inclined. My preference would be to keep the smaller right crack clean for jams and push the big boys up in the left crack. Chain anchor that probably will but might not have biners in it.

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By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Apr 21, 2011

FWIW, I was fine with gear to 3" on this and placed it all in the right crack...
By Backwards Eric
Oct 27, 2015

My #5 C4 was almost too small for the left crack about half-way up. So if you were planning to mix big (left crack) and small (right crack) gear, use up the big stuff a little earlier.

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