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YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Danny Kholert, 1986
Page Views: 2,521
Submitted By: Ben Folsom on Jun 30, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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The thin face and blunted arete of Fishlips.


Begin just right of Extreme Unction and climb the steep arete and face passing two bolts. After the second bolt continue up the arete passing some good gear placements to the top. The typical belay is the same for Extreme Unction.

(A good variation is to climb Fishlips and after the second bolt, after getting established on the arete, finish on the roof section of Extreme Unction.)


The route starts just right of Extreme Unction and just left of the Outer Darkness Chimney.


Some small to medium cams and there are some good nut placements as well.

Photos of Fishlips Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Fishlips
BETA PHOTO: Fishlips
Rock Climbing Photo: Fishlips:  Get on the wall and work the obvious cr...
BETA PHOTO: Fishlips: Get on the wall and work the obvious cr...

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By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jun 22, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

The moves to reach the 1st bolt can be protected with a #1 BD. It's a blind placement in a nice horizontal and you can readjust the cam from the last good hold before getting down to business.
There's also a great .75 placement above the 2nd bolt just to the left of the arete that protects the upper section.
A few micros protect the last easy bit of climbing.
By Fett
Sep 25, 2009

Tried this today and got sucked to the right after the 2nd bolt where a good hold appears. Was fun but not the route I was going for, next time I guess. Could this be a new variation? LOL
By Mark SLC
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 6, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

For me 2 #1 camalots and a 0.75 were plenty to stitch this up. No need for gear above the second obvious red camalot where unction roof meets the arete/face. And the crux moves are protected by well placed bolts. Short but so sweet. And yeah definitely go right onto that arete - where you do it is debatable - my partner went higher for it than I did, but you are missing out on the best moves of the route going right.
By Josh Triplett
From: Bountiful, UT
Jun 27, 2013
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

Love this route, led it today for the first time. Fell crux both times I attempted it, but I have the sequence now and will send on my next burn. I did not use a BD, it was way too big for any pockets that I saw. I placed a blue master cam to protect up to the first bolt. I would love to know where you sneaking in such a large cam. I could have just missed it, but I looked around for a while without success.
By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 5, 2013

Fantastic climb. I like the variety - jugs at the start, crimps and arete-slapping through the bolts, easy weird fergy climbing to the chains.

I used a blue metolius below the first bolt (no extension needed), a red mastercam (green BD) above the second bolt, and a #1 BD above that. Not sure where gear could go above that, but the climbing is easy. Very well protected.
By Danie White
From: SLC, UT
Jun 8, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

My favorite route so far in Fergie and my favorite sport route in a while.
By Josh Triplett
From: Bountiful, UT
Jun 22, 2014
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

So I was on this route again today, still my favorite mixed route. I had a question for all those who've climbed it. Has anyone tried a variation where instead of topping the slab and moving right to the obvious #1 C4, you push left and finish on Unction's roof section? I didn't have a chance to try it today, but sounds like it could be fun. I felt by itself the route is 11+, but adding the roof I think it would maybe be more on the d side of plus than c. Curious what people think. Will report if people are interested next time I'm on it.
By Ben Folsom
Jun 22, 2014

Hey Josh, I usually finish Fishlips on the Unction roof. I think it is a funner finish than the original. Not sure what effect that way has upon the rating, but since you get such a good rest below the roof, and the roof is way easier than Fishlips, probably doesn't make that much difference. It is however, a better finish to the route.
By Donovan Allen
From: Subaru
Oct 5, 2016

2#1 and a .75 were enough. Great route. One of Fergusons best.

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