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3. Fisherman's Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cheetah T,TR 
Cro-Magnon T,TR 
Diagonal T 
Jane T,TR 
Tarzan T 
Topaz T,TR 
Wizard, The T 

3. Fisherman's Wall Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 42.51638, -71.86096 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 16,553
Administrators: Joe M., Old Timer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: tscupp on Mar 23, 2008
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Description 

If the moderates of Crow Hill are what attract you to this fine MA crag, then this wall is probably not for you. With the easiest line being 5.8+ and the hardest going at 5.13, this wall reaches approximately 80 feet in height, is slightly overhanging and is stunning.

The left portion on the wall is split by a ledge which makes up the traverse of Green Corner. Most of the climbs on this part are stiff 5.9ish on large slopers. If you decide to do the second pitch or just do one long pitch, the upper half is much harder with fewer and smaller holds. There is also the easy exit finishing up Green Corner's second pitch.

The climbs on the right are the attention getters (visually at least) being either beautiful cracks or improbable moves up through slopey horizontals. This is the tallest unbroken part of the wall with a nice brownish color. Some lines have been led with small gear and big moves producing test pieces going at 5.13 R/X (more info on this soon).

Don't miss the classics like Diagonal (5.8+), Cro-Magnon (5.10), and Jane (5.11) though the rest of the climbs are great as well. Most of the climbs on the wall can be lead or TR'd with long slings and a 60m rope.

More info to come about the history of the wall....

Getting There 

Situated to the climber's right of the green corner and left of Tarzan's corner and the buttress. Hard to miss due to its height and visible difficulty.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.2 miles from here

7 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in 3. Fisherman's Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for 3. Fisherman's Wall:
Tarzan   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Diagonal   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 35'   
Cro-Magnon   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Cheetah   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 75'   
Jane   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in 3. Fisherman's Wall

Featured Route For 3. Fisherman's Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Kneebarring to end the boulder problem start.  Her...

Cro-Magnon 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  Massachusetts : Leominster Area : ... : 3. Fisherman's Wall
Awesome and pumpy, this is the inviting, vertical hand crack that starts up the tallest portion of the wall but arches left to end the journey early. The start is guarded by a steep boulder problem without pro leading to a pod with a shiny silver bolt on what looks like a chockstone about 15 feet up. There are three variations to this start, but most people opt to enter from the right on big, chalked holds. After clipping the bolt (gear can easily substitute), move up on a few slopey holds be...[more]   Browse More Classics in Massachusetts

Photos of 3. Fisherman's Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This shows the far right side of the Fisherman's W...
BETA PHOTO: This shows the far right side of the Fisherman's W...
Rock Climbing Photo: J. Healy setting the last piece of pro on 'The Wiz...
J. Healy setting the last piece of pro on 'The Wiz...
Rock Climbing Photo: Right side of the Fisherman's Wall.
BETA PHOTO: Right side of the Fisherman's Wall.

Comments on 3. Fisherman's Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Luc-514
Administrator
From: Montreal, Quebec
Sep 26, 2015
Dune.
By Aaron Livingston
From: Moab, UT
Jun 15, 2017
So what's the story with "Dune"? I gave it a TR today, and I have to say it's an amazing pitch. Was this an old aid line that got freed? Did the FFA go on gear, or were the bolts placed first and the gear ascent came second (or vice-versa), and who was the first ascensionist? I haven't had an opportunity to climb much in the Eastern U.S., but the Fisherman's Wall seems like a nice, little gem.
By Tim McGivern
From: Medford, ma
Jun 16, 2017
Info for Dune 5.12-5.13 R/X from Boston Rocks 2nd Edition: "FFA: John Mallery long ago, after bolting. The bolts were chopped. Mark Richey & Barry Rugo climbed it on preplaced gear in 1999, then Peter Vintoniv & Tim Kemple led it from the ground up in 2000."

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