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100 Proof S 
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Clown Loach (temporary name) T,S 
Crackside T 
Crackside Direct (var.) T 
Creek Dance S 
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Fish and Chips S 
Fish Bowl S 
Fool's Gold S 
Furlough Day S 
Golden Hammer, The S 
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Rhett Wench S 
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Winterfest S 

Fish and Chips 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: D. Mabe, 3/05
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 7,873
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on May 18, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (99)
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Having a little fun flag-poling on a roped solo ru...

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Fish and Chips is the left of two routes that start from the belay pod on the south-facing Creek Side Wall. Approach by tyrol (see comments under Creek Side area description).

This is another fun and long route with great photo potential from the road. Follow bolts over quality stone up to the huge, left-facing dihedral above. Stem the dihedral and eventually work on to the arete on big positive flakes to a small ledge and anchors (115' exactly). The moves climbing on the arete may seem stiff for 5.9, but the holds are big.

You can continue up and left past the anchors to another set where you can rap/lower to the start of P2 of Rhett Wench. However, you will not be able to lower back to the pod from the high anchors.

Fantastic exposure and fun climbing!


12 protection bolts and 2 bolt lowering anchor. 70 meter rope.

Photos of Fish and Chips Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The nice exposure coming around the arete late in ...
The nice exposure coming around the arete late in ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Greg at anchor.
Greg at anchor.
Rock Climbing Photo: South Creek Side Wall:  F. Rhett Wench, 11+, 2p.  ...
BETA PHOTO: South Creek Side Wall: F. Rhett Wench, 11+, 2p. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: John Morgan starting up the "Creek Side"...
John Morgan starting up the "Creek Side"...
Rock Climbing Photo: Belay pod to anchor.
Belay pod to anchor.

Comments on Fish and Chips Add Comment
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By Jerome Stiller
From: Golden CO
May 18, 2005

Another fun long-ish Mabe route (yeah, I climb some with Darren but I'm not his butt-boy, nor he mine, no matter what he tells ya!). I thought it was more .10a/b when I first lead it, but I TR'd it last night and all the holds are big and right there, so yeah, 9+ seems about right.
By Kim
May 31, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This route is a blast! I think the initial lead rating is more like 5.10a due to the steepness, but it probably won't seem as hard the second time around. I recommend it!
By Adam Peters
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 5, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

By the way, Fish and Chips along with the sidekick route Guppy may be two of the best moderate sport routes of their grade in Front Range, let alone the canyon. Great stone, great exposure, long, and freaking heaven for anyone who loves to rock climb. I have yet to take someone across the river that hasn't had a memorable experience.
By OkieGirl
From: Boulder finally
Jul 21, 2008

I loved this route but I'm curious... how do you go about NOT getting your rope stuck pulling it from these anchors??
By Rob Westfall
From: Denver, CO
Jul 19, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Rookie day for me at Creekside - what a gem! 60m rope was fine for us - just had to gank the belay anchors for P2 of Rhett Wench on the way down...mind the rafters/kayakers cause the second rap will get your rope wet!
By Mike Kasberg
From: Denver, CO
Jul 25, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great route. Climbed it with a 60m and just made it down to the belay pod. There are 2 sets of anchors at the top, about 15 ft apart. Clip the lower anchors for a 60m, and knot your ends.

When pulling your rope down, you can hook it over the tyrolean to prevent most of it from falling in the creek, but our end still went in.
By Erik Hatlestad
Nov 21, 2011

Climbed it today. Everything was great. The bolt path is perfect. Missed the last bolt as I went left instead of right, but no big deal. Fantastic route, and as always the tyrol is quite exciting!
By Jason Platt
Aug 5, 2014

This route is way too much fun. I could lap it all day. The moves on the arete are big, but the holds are ridiculously good. The rock at this wall is the best in the canyon in my opinion. Good sharp edges everywhere. The approach tyrol is fun and is probably the crux honestly. This route and The Guppy next door make for a memorable day of top notch moderate climbing.
By Carl H.
Nov 1, 2015

Agree with the previous post - great route, moves up and over the arete are exciting, but big, positive holds are there when you need them, and the moves getting on and off the tyrol, if not the crux, are close.
By JoshQ
Sep 25, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Another tick for a wonderful route here. Would add there is a spot were the route feels like it should go left, but the bolts are right. I found it easier to work right first clipping out with the left hand before arriving to the arete. Hands down holds up against the best single pitch routes anywhere I have been.

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