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YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Duane Anderton, Todd Draper
Page Views: 377
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Oct 25, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (82)
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BETA PHOTO: The Forgotten Wall. Next-to-west-most wall at Hard...

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>


Climb up to and over a stepped roof on huge jugs and pockets through the first three bolts. The most fun bit of the route, but not the hardest bit. The harder part comes after the fourth bolt: Surmount a bulge on a couple of pockets a wee bit less secure and farther out of reach than during the preceding bit.

Continue up vertical rock using standard-issue American Fork pockets (and a few crimps, if you want them) to the chains.

All-in-all, quite an enjoyable route if you enjoy big moves on big holds. The route is easier the farther left from the bolt line you trend; the natural line tends that direction because, to paraphrase Willie Sutton, “That’s where the holds are.”

This route is “comfortably” bolted, meaning you won’t worry much about any potential falls.


This is the right-most of three routes on the south-facing, next-to-west-most section of Hard Rock. The least-strenuous way to get there is to follow the trail when it turns right to go to the main Hard Rock wall (west-facing). Go north (left) along the main wall; you will turn west and by staying along the base of the rock you will end up at the base of these three newer Hard Rock routes.

Alternatively, don't turn right to the main Hard Rock area and instead continue straight to the base of the wall you see ahead of you as you come up the trail to the Hard Rock/White Wave/Escape Buttress areas.


8 bolts, chain anchors.

Photos of Firstborn Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Heel hooking to pull up on the first fun roof here...
Heel hooking to pull up on the first fun roof here...
Rock Climbing Photo: Walt starting on the best part of the route: big m...
Walt starting on the best part of the route: big m...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pull'n on AF pockets and edges.  Firstborn 5.10c
Pull'n on AF pockets and edges. Firstborn 5.10c
Rock Climbing Photo: Clipping the fourth bolt.
Clipping the fourth bolt.

Comments on Firstborn Add Comment
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By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Oct 25, 2007

I'm not really sure what this should be rated. Last year, a couple that was on it told me they thought, ".10c, maybe .10b"

I got on it for the first time today and I thought it was comparable to Jug for Joy (.10b in the Ruckman guide). On the other hand, it was definitely stiffer than Blood on the Rocks, also .10b in Ruckman.

My partners thought .10c was about right, so that's what we'll call it. When you've climbed it, add your own thought on the rating and maybe the "consensus" rating will converge toward something resembling reality.
By jtwalter
From: Orem, UT
Oct 25, 2007

This is a really fun route. Steep and juggy at the start and then it makes you think a little. While cleaning the draws off this I thought it would be cool to climb this route and clip one chain and climb through to the chains higher on the .10a to the left.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Nov 30, 2007
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

You could call it 5.10b/c it all depends on you ability to fight the pump just before the chains. The start is extreamly fun! Can easily cross into the route to the left.
From: Texas
Jul 22, 2011

I thought the start of this climb was one of the cooler roofs that I have pulled. It looks pretty intimidating, but there are some really nice big holds that you can use to get over it. Great pumpy route.
By Annie Naylor
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 19, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Super fun start over the roof, then pumpy pumpy pumpy through the last moves to the chains!
By D. Durrant
From: Utah, USA
Sep 22, 2012

Just a ton of fun. I think the crux is the bouldery section just above the 5th bolt. If you move out to the right a bit for the last couple of bolts you'll find better holds. Quality rock.
By Tim Moore
May 17, 2014
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Awesome pump route with super good holds and some fun quasi dyno moves. A must do great route on awesome rock with a great belay spot.

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