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First Wall 3 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 192
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Oct 26, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: First Wall 3

Description 

Starts off with decent but slightly far holds. Ledges interrupt climbing on sketchy-feeling feet. The crux of the climb is 2/3 of the way up with a hivelike network of slopey pockets most of which would be heinous on vertical but are more than sufficient at this angle. From the big ledge, make a few more moves straight up to a new anchor.

Location 

Middle of the wall

Protection 

Bolts


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By Danger
From: Taipei City
Jan 5, 2014

One of the better climbs at Rehai. Slab the whole way. Starts off with decent but slightly far holds on mossy/dirty terrain. Above the bushline the rock clears up. Ledges interrupt climbing on sketchy-feeling feet.

The crux of the climb is 2/3 of the way up with a hivelike network of slopey pockets most of which would be heinous on vertical but are more than sufficient at this angle.

The anchor for this climb is a single bolt, so for cleaning purposes the anchor to the right or left is recommended.
By Jim Althans
May 4, 2014

Only 1 anchor bolt.
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
May 12, 2016

Now has two anchor bolts and a better-placed 2nd bolt.

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