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First Trapps Chimney 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Dick Williams and Cherry Merrit
Page Views: 1,318
Submitted By: Kevin Heckeler on Nov 24, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Looking up "First Trapps Chimney" P1

Description 

-- This route intersects the rap line for High E (depending on exactly where ropes are tossed). We used this as a warmup climb since a large group was starting up High E when we arrived. --

P1 5.5 G -- Follow crack/corner to blockier terrain above, eventually ending at rap anchors.

P2 -- Continue up corner. We did not explore this pitch due to the impending rappelling.

Location 

To the right of the Directississima face is a chimney. 15 feet to the right of the chimney, start at a flared crack and a short right-facing corner.

Protection 

Standard rack (#3 C4 helpful). Anchors.


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By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Nov 24, 2011

Very committing moves but well protected. Worth climbing if you're already there and can't get on High E.
By Simon L
From: Hartford, CT
Nov 12, 2012
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13

First pitch is nice, second pitch is easy but not much gear. Brings you to a nice ledge where you have a good view of climber's making "the move" on High E. You can walk over to the High E belay ledge too. Third pitch is messy and not worth doing unless you want to get to the top. Bolted anchors all the way.

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