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5.9: the most dangerous grade S 
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First Thought 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 93'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: George Kokuryo & Charles Kalinsky
Page Views: 122
Submitted By: Vincent larochelle on Jul 23, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: First Thought Credit: Charles Kalinsky


  • * Submitted by Charles Kalinsky **

It is a nice slabby route on grippy limestone. You begin up a slope to small ledges of loose rock. Belayer stay up and to the left to avoid possibility of rock falls. The third bolt is the crux with your most vertical section. Past this you will find great feet and many choices for your hands. Work some magic between bolts 6 and 7. Enjoy an exposed slabby move from bolt 8 to the anchor ledge by heading right. Or move up left to a left facing corner with a great lie back. Enjoy the views!


The route is on the next face of rocks beyond the current routes (i.e. Trundle & Old Was Bold). Pass a small gully between the rock walls. About half way along this further rock wall you will see the first bolt on the face above a slope. It is located at 60°40'12.7"N 134°54'30.2"W


8 bolts meandering up to the left
rappel rings above a ledge (60m rope gets you to the ground)

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