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First solo route on the captain?
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Sep 27, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Finger cracking in Indian Creek!
Hello lovelies!

I'm an intermediate wall climber.... I've climbed Lurking Fear and Zodiac on the captain.

I'm looking for my first solo route on the captain. My solo experience isn't that deep.... Only done Prodigal Son IAD solo....

I'm looking for something secluded, without a ton of nasty hauling. I'm also looking at the SE face because it will be early October (less sun)

My two current ideas are Octopussy or Never Never land.

Any ideas?
Sam Keller
Joined Jun 21, 2013
35 points
Sep 27, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Banana Peel 10+
supertopo.com/climbers-forum/7... Barrett Pauer
From Brevard, NC
Joined Apr 9, 2013
623 points
Sep 27, 2016
T trip. Kauait
From Sandy Utah
Joined Aug 6, 2015
4 points
Sep 27, 2016
P.O Wall Kauait
From Sandy Utah
Joined Aug 6, 2015
4 points
Sep 27, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Birds and Beards
Sam Keller wrote:
I'm looking for something secluded, without a ton of nasty hauling. I'm also looking at the SE face because it will be early October (less sun) My two current ideas are Octopussy or Never Never land. Any ideas?


OK, so both of those routes are on the West face of El Cap. But saying you want less sun would mean you want to be on the East face. So which is it?


For West Face:
Believe it or not Muir Wall (for as historic and popular as it should be) does not normally have many parties on it.

For East Face:
Mescalito will be good but more likely to have other parties
(Stay away from anything that travels through the dark rock is heat is a concern)
Virginia to Tangerine Trip is a great start with a super easy finish when you're exhausted and tired and realizing that what you thought you'd get done in a day is just not happening and then all of the sudden! Hooray! rivet highway! full disclosure, never climbed it myself, just going off reports of friends I who have.)
kevin deweese
From Oakland, Ca
Joined Jan 14, 2007
304 points
Sep 27, 2016

That was certainly useful.
Marc801
From Sandy, Utah
Joined Feb 25, 2014
64 points
Sep 27, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: On the North America Wall in 1977.
Zenyatta Mondatta, Lost in America or Shortest Straw all all good routes. Mark Hudon
From Lives on the road
Joined Jul 27, 2009
373 points
Sep 27, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: We shall continue with style
you should try "wings of steel" BigB
From Red Rock, NV
Joined Feb 18, 2015
311 points
Sep 27, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Birds and Beards
BigB wrote:
you should try "wings of steel"


would have been funny but you came a bit late to the party

kevin deweese
From Oakland, Ca
Joined Jan 14, 2007
304 points
Sep 27, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: We shall continue with style
^Story of my life....
day late and a dollar short
BigB
From Red Rock, NV
Joined Feb 18, 2015
311 points
Sep 27, 2016
BigB wrote:
^Story of my life.... day late and a dollar short

You could break down and actually read the posts in the thread before replying!
Marc801
From Sandy, Utah
Joined Feb 25, 2014
64 points
Sep 27, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: On the North America Wall in 1977.
We should be able to "Like" a post! Mark Hudon
From Lives on the road
Joined Jul 27, 2009
373 points
Sep 27, 2016
+1 Kauait
From Sandy Utah
Joined Aug 6, 2015
4 points
Sep 28, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Finger cracking in Indian Creek!


Great IDEA! Thank you! It's good to know that I can count on the good people of MP to offer sound and sage advice!
Sam Keller
Joined Jun 21, 2013
35 points
Sep 28, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Finger cracking in Indian Creek!
kevin deweese wrote:
OK, so both of those routes are on the West face of El Cap. But saying you want less sun would mean you want to be on the East face. So which is it? For West Face: Believe it or not Muir Wall (for as historic and popular as it should be) does not normally have many parties on it. For East Face: Mescalito will be good but more likely to have other parties (Stay away from anything that travels through the dark rock is heat is a concern) Virginia to Tangerine Trip is a great start with a super easy finish when you're exhausted and tired and realizing that what you thought you'd get done in a day is just not happening and then all of the sudden! Hooray! rivet highway! full disclosure, never climbed it myself, just going off reports of friends I who have.)



I had a friend do Muir wall and he said the hauling sucks.

I like the idea of T.Trip. Thanks for the advice.
Sam Keller
Joined Jun 21, 2013
35 points
Sep 28, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Banana Peel 10+
Anytime ;) Barrett Pauer
From Brevard, NC
Joined Apr 9, 2013
623 points
Sep 29, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Birds and Beards
For what it's worth, attaching a thin tag line to the bottom of your haul bag and doing a mini haul with the tag line if the top of the bag gets caught on something will solve a lot of your usual solo hauling horror stories.

Only problem is that it takes a reduculous amount of rope management and so isn't worth it unless you're hauling a pitch you KNOW the bag will get stuck on

Unless you were talking about the difficulty of hauling low angle in which case, 2:1 hauling ratchet is fine but certainly not comfortable
kevin deweese
From Oakland, Ca
Joined Jan 14, 2007
304 points


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