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First Night at Fight Club 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: John Steiger, Kent Wheeler, Clay Watson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 88
Submitted By: tenesmus on Jul 9, 2017

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Description 

"The eighth and final rule: If this is your first night at Fight Club, you have to fight."
Gearing up for this one always puts a lump in my throat. Not that its dangerous: there is gear everywhere. Its just a steep-ass crack system that keeps coming after you till you hit the roof.

Location 

Starts in the main staging area just left of the arete. Clip one bolt and traverse the crack moving left to the vertical component. Protect this traverse well. We hope to straighten this out into a direct line soon.

Protection 

One qd to start, a couple of long draws for the middle, standard rack from small cams to #3 camalot. I think a single set does the trick but having one or two extra pieces wouldn't hurt. Please be sure to protect yourself well as you start the traverse. This part of the cliff was found to have a little more brittle rock than the rest.

The rope gets super stuck in the crack once you pull the lip so we added a bolt out left. This is purely to keep the rope out of the crack and unless you're a supertradster you really do need to use it.


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By tenesmus
Jul 9, 2017

A bird moved into the pod below the crux this year. We're pretty sure its gone now but if you go up there, bring a brush. This is a fun trad line that makes you work through the sizes where its steep.

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