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Big E S 
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Captain, The S 
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First Mate S 
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Plunge, The S 
Red Venus S 
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Undulating Dingo S 
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First Mate 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 1,130
Submitted By: Rich F. on Oct 9, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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Starting up the long 4th class runout to the first...

Reopened after flood damage! MORE INFO >>>


The crux is just before and after bolt #3. This has a challenging crux for a 5.9 route, but the bolts are close together -- well-protected. Feet, feet, feet!


This is immediately right of The Captain.


This is a sport route -- you just need about 6 QDs.

Photos of First Mate Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Myong leading First Mate.
Myong leading First Mate.

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By Cody E
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Feb 4, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

First bolt is pretty high and run out, but it's pretty easy scrambling getting to it. Thought this was a great climb. I give it 5.9. Solid anchors up top.
By Arlo F Niederer
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 14, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This climb would get more stars if it didn't have the 25 foot unprotected slab start with crumbly rock. I had a foothold crumble under my foot and almost took a nasty tumble down the slab and into the bushes! Although the slab is moderate, a bolt mid-slab would mitigate a fall here.

Once you get to the climb, it's fun, sustained climbing on steep rock.
By Levi Arnhold
From: Colorado Springs, CO
3 days ago
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Yes, long runout at the beginning of the route, but it seemed like the start has been cleaned up. I didn't notice crumbling holds. However, I did feel like the moves between bolt 2-3.5 was too hard for the grade. That section was harder than all of 5.10as and 5.10a/bs on The Whale. To me, it was the second most challenging route on The Whale behind Arnold's Demise. Maybe I climbed it wrong, missed a hold, or some hold deteriorated or broke off... I don't know.

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