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Third Buttress
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First, Last, and Always 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Stevenson
Page Views: 856
Submitted By: AndyJohnson on Apr 29, 2014

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H Nguyen, ending the powerful crux sequence

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A long and adventurous route leads past several interesting sequences separated by good rests.

Be careful climbing past some flaky rock at the 1st bolt. Continue up an easier slab and crack section to a stance at the 4th bolt. Move up, clip the 5th bolt, and traverse left to a nice layback move up to a ledge with the 6th bolt. Rest up here for the crux. Reach up high to crimps and deadpoint to a good ledge. Clip the 7th bolt and negotiate the angled flake and a crimp to reach the ledge above the 8th bolt. Find the nice holds on the ledge and move up to a rest at the 9th bolt. Some easier, but pumpy climbing leads past the last bolt to a few crimps just before the anchor-clipping jug.

Location 

Far right section of 3rd Buttress, walk under huge roof with Bittersweet and Shaken, Not Stirred. On the wall to the right of this roof, this is the right-hand bolt line. The start to Beer Pressure / Dean's Route is to the left.

Protection 

10 bolts, and 2 open-shut anchor.


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