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First Lady 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Jim Brink, Paul Heyliger
Season: spring summer, fall
Page Views: 165
Submitted By: Jim Brink on Mar 19, 2016

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  • Description 

    Paul and I climbed First Lady in July 1983 after doing the first three pitches of Mr. President We both thought it was a more fitting finish for that great route than the easy exit pitches. It looks formidable, because it is somewhat overhung for a considerable distance at the outset. I remember it was strenuous but not as bad as expected and quite a thrill.

    I found this description in the margin of my old Kimball and Salaun guide and thought it deserved to be shared.

    Location 

    It is the slightly overhung hand crack on the right wall of the huge dihedral right of the belay after the third pitch of Mr. President. I think we moved the belay a few feet right to get below the crack. Do the standard descent from Sundance.

    Protection 

    Standard trad rack as used on Mr. President. There are no bolts, fixed gear, or anchors of any kind. I don't recall any concern about bad pro or bad rock.


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